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Posted by Tony Hwang on January 31, 2009, 12:40 am
gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 18:17:03 -0800 (PST), makolber@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Nick explained it correctly..
>> If they used a "variable resistor" the control would get as hot as the
>
>
> Nick is right.
> There is a bi-metal strip (bends when you heat it) with a contact
> point on the end and a coil of wire that is energized when the contact
> makes. As it heats up, along with the burner, the contact opens. When
> the bi-metal strip cools the contact makes again. They move the other
> contact in and out when you turn the knob to regulate when it breaks.
> As they age the strip takes a set and is not linear anymore.
>
> http://gfretwell.com/electrical/stove%20control.jpg
>
> From a Whirlpool cooktop
Hi,
New ones don't have bi-nmetal strip/contacts. It is like a light dimmer
using S.S. device.
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Posted by Wayne Boatwright on January 31, 2009, 8:33 pm
On Fri 30 Jan 2009 10:22:51a, J. Clarke told us...
show/hide quoted text
> dpb wrote:
>> nick wrote:
>> ...
>>> ... I guess I don't understand why we can't devise a better control.
>> Cost.
>
> How does the control sense the temperature in the pot? Most of them
> are simply variable resistors or if someone is going for efficiency
> triacs that vary the power input. They do no temperature sensing at
> all unless there's an overtemp protective circuit.
>
> To be usefully better the control would have to sense the temperature
> in the pot. There have been attempts to do this but they generally
> involve dangling a probe into the food.
>
Years ago Sears used to sell a Kenmore electric range with coil burners.
Some were equipped with a spring-loaded button in the center of the coils
that made contact with the pot and sensed the temperature. The control
dial was calibrated in degrees. It worked rather well. I believe that
some radiant glass top units may have similar function. They can sense if
there is a pot on the burner and will turn off if there isn't.
--
Wayne Boatwright
e-mail to wayneboatwright at gmail dot com
************************************************************************
Date: Saturday, 01(I)/31(XXXI)/09(MMIX)
************************************************************************
Countdown till President's Day
2wks 1dys 5hrs 30mins
************************************************************************
Cats must try to climb on the human's lap when he/she is using the
laptop computer.
************************************************************************
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Posted by mm on January 31, 2009, 10:17 pm
On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 07:18:23 -0800 (PST), nick
show/hide quoted text
>The last three electric ranges I have owned (all with the usual
>"infinitely variable" surface unit control) have occasionally just
>shut off on the lowest setting. Normally this setting will maintain a
>simmer, but when the control decides to screw up, it will let the
>temperature of the pot drop to 180 degrees or even lower. I have just
>assumed that there is no solution to this problem, but it is very
>annoying, and maybe somebody out there has an answer. The old style
>burner/control with two or more coils hooked in series or parallel at
>110 or 220 was a lot more predictable. I guess I don't understand why
>we can't devise a better control.
Have you tried the other 3 burners to see if any of them do better?
If so, the one you usually use is broken. You can buy new parts or
interchange with the one that works well.
I use "burner" even though they are electric.
I rarely use any but the front two burners, one big and one small. On
the big burner, to heat the food up quickly, I put the knob at 1
o'clock until it gets close to the temp I want. To keep water at a
simmer or to scramble eggs, I put it at 5 o'clock. There are still
settings from 6 to 11 o'clock that I never use, that should be less
hot than simmer. I can hardly believe none of them work, but like I
say I've never tried them.
This is a Sears made-by-whirlpool range, 29 years old. I don't cook
a lot but I use the range or oven for something 5 or 6 days a week.
Over the years, the Oven/Broiler switch broke, and the socket for the
burner I use most wore out. Easy repairs.
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>
>> Nick explained it correctly..
>> If they used a "variable resistor" the control would get as hot as the
>
>
> Nick is right.
> There is a bi-metal strip (bends when you heat it) with a contact
> point on the end and a coil of wire that is energized when the contact
> makes. As it heats up, along with the burner, the contact opens. When
> the bi-metal strip cools the contact makes again. They move the other
> contact in and out when you turn the knob to regulate when it breaks.
> As they age the strip takes a set and is not linear anymore.
>
> http://gfretwell.com/electrical/stove%20control.jpg
>
> From a Whirlpool cooktop