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Posted by Craig on September 6, 2005, 2:02 am
Hello, I have a bathroom where the builder installed a shower head (by
mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My questions
are these:
1) Is it okay to continue the next rows of tile above the bullnose if I
seal it good above the bullnose and the row of new tile (perahaps with a
good caulk of silicone)?
2) Given that this shower will only be used perhaps once or twice a
month (it is a secondary bathroom), will it be okay on the green board if I
seal the grout on an annual basis?
Since this home is only 4 years old, I'm loathe to tear out the wall and put
in cement board. Also, what alternatives are there to tile that would look
good? I would install it above the existing rows of tile. Most surrounds
I've seen look like they wouldn't go in well with the oversized tub and
existing tile. I've toyed with the idea of glueing acrylic sheet to the
wall and then caulking the seams with white silicone, but am afraid it won't
look good when I'm done. (But then I wouldn't be able to play with my new
Rotozip tile cutting bit :-) )
Thanks for the help,
Craig caheaton(AT)netzero.net (AT) = @
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Posted by Amun on September 6, 2005, 6:58 am
show/hide quoted text
> Hello, I have a bathroom where the builder installed a shower head (by
> mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
> of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
> rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
> the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My
questions
show/hide quoted text
> are these:
> 1) Is it okay to continue the next rows of tile above the bullnose if I
> seal it good above the bullnose and the row of new tile (perahaps with a
> good caulk of silicone)?
> 2) Given that this shower will only be used perhaps once or twice a
> month (it is a secondary bathroom), will it be okay on the green board if
> seal the grout on an annual basis?
> Since this home is only 4 years old, I'm loathe to tear out the wall and
put
show/hide quoted text
> in cement board. Also, what alternatives are there to tile that would
look
show/hide quoted text
> good? I would install it above the existing rows of tile. Most surrounds
> I've seen look like they wouldn't go in well with the oversized tub and
> existing tile. I've toyed with the idea of glueing acrylic sheet to the
> wall and then caulking the seams with white silicone, but am afraid it
won't
show/hide quoted text
> look good when I'm done. (But then I wouldn't be able to play with my new
> Rotozip tile cutting bit :-) )
> Thanks for the help,
> Craig caheaton(AT)netzero.net (AT) = @
HOO BOY, another can of worms tile/greenboard/cementboard post.
show/hide quoted text
Watch to see the blood and body parts flying <LOL>
But first, as you have been in the house for 4 years, are you constantly
punching holes in the existing greenboard ?
If yes, you better get the cement board up quick.
If no, and it's in good shape, there is no reason to rip out the existing
walls.
As it sounds like you have a general idea about what is involved with tiles,
you should not have any big problems.
The surrounds are usually more expensive than "standard" tiles, especially
if you are doing your own labor.
And never are as good. (come loose, hard to keep sealed) and you would have
to rip out the existing 2 rows of tiles and patch any damage to put them in
But then they go in fast.
Avoid the really cheap ones, they warp the first hot day you get.
Unless you can get acrylic/formica sheets very cheap, it usually costs as
much per sq.ft. as the ready made surround.
Will always look like you cut and glued it yourself, and the same problems
as surround, (hard to seal, come loose)
As it's very likely that any other bathrooms you (and all your neighbors)
have, are also greenboard with tile.
And you prefer not to remove it before adding more tiling.
Just carefully pry off the bullnose, being careful not to rip the greenboard
paper any more than you have to, and continue with tiles.
Grout and caulk it properly, and you shouldn't have any problems.
Of course some anal retentives will insist you rip it all out and put in
cement board.
Perhaps they will offer to cover the costs for you as well.
AMUN
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Posted by G Henslee on September 6, 2005, 8:19 am
Craig wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hello, I have a bathroom where the builder installed a shower head (by
> mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
> of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
> rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
> the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My questions
> are these:
>
> 1) Is it okay to continue the next rows of tile above the bullnose if I
> seal it good above the bullnose and the row of new tile (perahaps with a
> good caulk of silicone)?
>
> 2) Given that this shower will only be used perhaps once or twice a
> month (it is a secondary bathroom), will it be okay on the green board if I
> seal the grout on an annual basis?
>
> Since this home is only 4 years old, I'm loathe to tear out the wall and put
> in cement board. Also, what alternatives are there to tile that would look
> good? I would install it above the existing rows of tile. Most surrounds
> I've seen look like they wouldn't go in well with the oversized tub and
> existing tile. I've toyed with the idea of glueing acrylic sheet to the
> wall and then caulking the seams with white silicone, but am afraid it won't
> look good when I'm done. (But then I wouldn't be able to play with my new
> Rotozip tile cutting bit :-) )
> Thanks for the help,
> Craig caheaton(AT)netzero.net (AT) = @
>
>
>
Whoa, down boy, down.
No need to "tear out the wall". Peel the three rows off and install
Haridbacker or Denshield over the existing drywall. Don't worry about
disturbing the drywall paper some as the backer will cover it. Then
tile using thinset mortar.
If you were hiring a pro I would recommend a mortar substrate over the
drywall as the numero uno substrate.
Do NOT under any circumstances take advice from an idiot named AMUN.
He's a clueless moron regarding tile, electrical and various other
construction issues. And as things go AMUN will (thankfully) dissapear
as his kind usually do when confronted with their bad advice by those
who are epxerts in their respective fields.
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Posted by keith on September 7, 2005, 11:57 am
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 08:19:35 -0700, G Henslee wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Craig wrote:
>> Hello, I have a bathroom where the builder installed a shower head (by
>> mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
>> of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
>> rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
>> the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My questions
>> are these:
>>
>> 1) Is it okay to continue the next rows of tile above the bullnose if I
>> seal it good above the bullnose and the row of new tile (perahaps with a
>> good caulk of silicone)?
>>
>> 2) Given that this shower will only be used perhaps once or twice a
>> month (it is a secondary bathroom), will it be okay on the green board if I
>> seal the grout on an annual basis?
>>
>> Since this home is only 4 years old, I'm loathe to tear out the wall and put
>> in cement board. Also, what alternatives are there to tile that would look
>> good? I would install it above the existing rows of tile. Most surrounds
>> I've seen look like they wouldn't go in well with the oversized tub and
>> existing tile. I've toyed with the idea of glueing acrylic sheet to the
>> wall and then caulking the seams with white silicone, but am afraid it won't
>> look good when I'm done. (But then I wouldn't be able to play with my new
>> Rotozip tile cutting bit :-) )
>> Thanks for the help,
>> Craig caheaton(AT)netzero.net (AT) = @
>>
>>
>>
>
> Whoa, down boy, down.
>
> No need to "tear out the wall". Peel the three rows off and install
> Haridbacker or Denshield over the existing drywall. Don't worry about
> disturbing the drywall paper some as the backer will cover it. Then
> tile using thinset mortar.
I'd rip out the drywall and install 1/2" Hardi-backer (that's what I did
in my laundry before tiling the walls). Sheetrock is easy to pull down
and hardi-backer is almost as easy to work with as sheetrock. In fact
it's "easier", considering that there is no need to make the tape joints
perfect. I have found that a 3-3/8" circular saw makes cutting it easier.
....speaking of which, I have some floors to tile (hardi-backer today) ;-)
show/hide quoted text
> If you were hiring a pro I would recommend a mortar substrate over the
> drywall as the numero uno substrate.
If you can find the skills anymore. It is nice, but *expensive*.
show/hide quoted text
> Do NOT under any circumstances take advice from an idiot named AMUN.
> He's a clueless moron regarding tile, electrical and various other
> construction issues. And as things go AMUN will (thankfully) dissapear
> as his kind usually do when confronted with their bad advice by those
> who are epxerts in their respective fields.
--
Keith
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Posted by RicodJour on September 7, 2005, 9:19 am
Craig wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Hello, I have a bathroom where the builder installed a shower head (by
> mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
> of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
> rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
> the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My questions
> are these:
> 1) Is it okay to continue the next rows of tile above the bullnose if I
> seal it good above the bullnose and the row of new tile (perahaps with a
> good caulk of silicone)?
Only if you don't mind repairing that wall in a few years.
show/hide quoted text
> 2) Given that this shower will only be used perhaps once or twice a
> month (it is a secondary bathroom), will it be okay on the green board if I
> seal the grout on an annual basis?
See above.
show/hide quoted text
> Since this home is only 4 years old, I'm loathe to tear out the wall and put
> in cement board. Also, what alternatives are there to tile that would look
> good? I would install it above the existing rows of tile. Most surrounds
> I've seen look like they wouldn't go in well with the oversized tub and
> existing tile. I've toyed with the idea of glueing acrylic sheet to the
> wall and then caulking the seams with white silicone, but am afraid it won't
> look good when I'm done. (But then I wouldn't be able to play with my new
> Rotozip tile cutting bit :-) )
Take off the tile and put up a thin layer backer board. Hardibacker
board would work: http://sweets.construction.com/mfg/1160/P25249.htm
as would Wedi board: http://www.wedi.de/usa/
The Wedi board is easier to work with than drywall, much lighter than
other backer boards, takes tile beautifully, is 100% waterproof...need
I go on?
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> mistake) over our whirlpool tub. The tub has a tile splashguard (two rows
> of ceramic tile topped by a bullnose row of tile, for a total of three
> rows). I've decided to go ahead and finish the tiling so that we can use
> the shower. The tile is installed directly onto green board. My