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Posted by Robert Allison on August 3, 2008, 3:41 pm
benjunk@pookmail.com wrote:
> My house has T-111 type plywood panel siding on it. When it was
> installed long before I bought the house, on an addition it was
> installed much too close to the ground. Unsurprisingly, in these
> areas, the siding has rotted and is falling apart.
>
> Because the foundation of the addition is not nearly as high as the
> original house, the only way to fix the problem is to regrade or find
> another answer. For various reasons, regrading is not possible. So I
> want to cut off the bottom 10" or so of the siding and replace it with
> something more resilient like pressure treated lumber or cedar. The
> idea is that either will be more resistant to rot and insects, and
> further can be easily replaced in the future if it does succumb to the
> elements.
>
> This raises two issues: 1) I'm having trouble finding z-flashing that
> accommodate anything thicker than 3/4" combined with 2) which is that
> that I'm having trouble finding pressure treated or cedar that is
> thinner than 1".
Try some hardiboard. Very durable and takes all kinds of solid
color stains and paints. Comes in various thicknesses and
widths. Should have something that you can use. I would not use
treated as it tends to warp. Cedar would not be my first choice
for that application, either. Cypress would work, but it too has
a tendancy to check and warp. Hardi would be my first choice.
> Ideally I'd have this board be the same thickness as the siding (3/8"
> or 5/8" probably), but I don't think I'll find that. Any ideas where
> to find 1" z-flashing?
Try a real lumberyard, or failing that, get a sheet metal shop to
make some for you. All you have to do is call and tell them the
dimensions that you want. I prefer to do this as I can get Z
flashing with larger flanges, which helps to protect what it is
designed to protect.
> Also, any suggestions for how to affix the z-flashing under the
> existing siding edge given that I'm installing this 'backwards'?
> Usually you'd start from the bottom and go up, so the flashing install
> is simple.
Slip it up under the siding above and nail through the siding and
through the flashing at the top of the flashing. This is where
those wider flanges come in handy and make it harder at the same
time. You must remove all nails in the siding above in the area
that the flashing will extend behind it. Gives a wider nailing
area, but requires you to remove more nails (sometimes).
> Will pressure treated accept a solid-color stain well enough to blend
> with the rest of the siding?
See above about PT.
> Comments on the whole plan or suggestions for alternatives are
> welcome.
>
> thanks
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
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