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Posted by Jules on October 2, 2009, 2:57 pm
I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the
end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper element,
but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal rod through the
socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that as a breaker, it
just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets the socket...
Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has leaving
the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor has
thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me nervous,
that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want to crack it).
Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling, not
outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the upper
one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't want to risk
trashing the tank threads.
Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I have a
bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before I go
modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other bright ideas?
Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil is worth a shot?
cheers
Jules
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Posted by Bob F on October 2, 2009, 3:08 pm
Jules wrote:
> I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the
> end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper
> element, but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal
> rod through the socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that
> as a breaker, it just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets
> the socket...
> Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has
> leaving the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor
> has thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me
> nervous, that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want
> to crack it).
> Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
> although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling,
> not outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the
> upper one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't
> want to risk trashing the tank threads.
> Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I
> have a bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before
> I go modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other
> bright ideas? Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil
> is worth a shot?
Have you tried tightening it? Sometimes things will break loose when turned the
other way.
Have you tried the hammer and screwdriver at an angle trick on the nut to try to
turn it with impact?
Have you tried a pipe on each end of the bar to double the force before the bar
bands?
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Posted by Jules on October 2, 2009, 3:32 pm
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 12:08:43 -0700, Bob F wrote:
> Have you tried tightening it? Sometimes things will break loose when turned
the
> other way.
Heck, that was a quick reply :)
Just gave that one a go - no luck unfortunately...
> Have you tried the hammer and screwdriver at an angle trick on the nut to try
to
> turn it with impact?
Not yet - I suppose that should be my second-last-resort to drilling the
darn thing out, as it might damage the nut and make it impossible to get
the socket on...
> Have you tried a pipe on each end of the bar to double the force before
> the bar bands?
Sadly I can't as it is right now; whoever installed the thing fitted it
against a wall with the access panels on the left and pointing slightly
toward the wall - I'd have to cut the pipes and take the whole tank out to
get at it like that.
(although I do want to cut the cold feed pipe anyway so I can put a
shut-off valve in, so I suppose it'd only be one extra pipe and I could
re-route things easily enough - I'll have a think about that!)
Oh, can't see a sign of a washer on that lower element, unlike the upper
one - makes me wonder if it doesn't have one and it's just been
gooped up with who-knows-what to seal it. Grr!
cheers
Jules
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Posted by HeyBub on October 2, 2009, 3:17 pm
Jules wrote:
> I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the
> end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper
> element, but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal
> rod through the socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that
> as a breaker, it just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets
> the socket...
> Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has
> leaving the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor
> has thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me
> nervous, that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want
> to crack it).
> Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
> although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling,
> not outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the
> upper one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't
> want to risk trashing the tank threads.
> Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I
> have a bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before
> I go modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other
> bright ideas? Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil
> is worth a shot?
There are many types of penatrating oil. The one I've had the most luck with
is "BLASTER PB," available at auto parts stores.
It is used by all our neighborhood Mexican auto mechanics who don't know
enough English to curse very well. Saves them an awful lot of "um...,
ahhh..., "
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Posted by on October 2, 2009, 3:33 pm
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:57:11 -0500, Jules
>I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the
>end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper element,
>but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal rod through the
>socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that as a breaker, it
>just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets the socket...
>Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has leaving
>the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor has
>thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me nervous,
>that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want to crack it).
>Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
>although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling, not
>outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the upper
>one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't want to risk
>trashing the tank threads.
>Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I have a
>bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before I go
>modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other bright ideas?
>Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil is worth a shot?
>cheers
>Jules
If it ain't broke DON'T FIX IT!
Worst case is you will be buying a new water heater and that "worst
case" could be right now if you keep screwing with that element.
You may not break the metal can but you can crack the glass lining.
My bet is the bottom of that water heater is slugged solid with scale
and you will be buying a new one soon enough. At least do it on your
own schedule.
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> end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper
> element, but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal
> rod through the socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that
> as a breaker, it just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets
> the socket...
> Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has
> leaving the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor
> has thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me
> nervous, that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want
> to crack it).
> Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
> although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling,
> not outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the
> upper one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't
> want to risk trashing the tank threads.
> Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I
> have a bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before
> I go modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other
> bright ideas? Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil
> is worth a shot?