If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Bob F on October 14, 2009, 3:05 pm
charlie wrote:
>>>> Worst case is you will be buying a new water heater and that "worst
>>>> case" could be right now if you keep screwing with that element.
>>>> You may not break the metal can but you can crack the glass lining.
>>> they haven't made them with glass linings for a LONG time
>>>> My bet is the bottom of that water heater is slugged solid with
>>>> scale and you will be buying a new one soon enough. At least do it
>>>> on your own schedule.
>> Huh, saw glass lined in the local place just yesterday.
> well, if it's glass lined, then why a: does it need an anode, and b:
> what would rust to produce a hole in the casing?
Because the glass lining is not perfect and does not cover every single square
micron of the tank. The area it does cover reduces the erosion of the anode.
|
|
Posted by hallerb@aol.com on October 14, 2009, 5:02 pm
> charlie wrote:
> >>>> Worst case is you will be buying a new water heater and that "worst
> >>>> case" could be right now if you keep screwing with that element.
> >>>> You may not break the metal can but you can crack the glass lining.
> >>> they haven't made them with glass linings for a LONG time
> >>>> My bet is the bottom of that water heater is slugged solid with
> >>>> scale and you will be buying a new one soon enough. At least do it
> >>>> on your own schedule.
> >> Huh, saw glass lined in the local place just yesterday.
> > well, if it's glass lined, then why a: does it need an anode, and b:
> > what would rust to produce a hole in the casing?
> Because the glass lining is not perfect and does not cover every single s=
quare
> micron of the tank. The area it does cover reduces the erosion of the ano=
de.
plus the glass detoriates over time espically in the high hear areas
|
|
Posted by JIMMIE on October 2, 2009, 4:18 pm
wrote:
> I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the
> end to take a 3/8" shaft - and I had no problems with the upper element,
> but the lower one is jammed up solid; with some 3/8" metal rod through th=
e
> socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that as a breaker, it
> just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets the socket...
> Heating around the element nut with a torch hasn't helped, nor has leavin=
g
> the whole lot to soak in penetrating oil for a few hours, nor has
> thumping it with a big hammer to loosen the corrosion (makes me nervous,
> that, though - tank looks to be cast iron, and I don't want to crack it).
> Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose,
> although I was mainly interested in checking the element for scaling, not
> outright replacing it (it's giving 13.8 ohms consistent with the upper
> one, and nothing to ground on either terminal), plus i don't want to risk
> trashing the tank threads.
> Next attempt might be to drill the holes larger in the socket, as I have =
a
> bit of 5/8" solid rod sitting up in the workshop - but before I go
> modifying the tool, I was wondering if anyone had any other bright ideas?
> Maybe leaving it to soak overnight in penetrating oil is worth a shot?
> cheers
> Jules
Ive had that happen too, If you can get a big pipe wrench on the
socket.... Pay heed others cautions
Jimmie
|
|
Posted by Jules on October 2, 2009, 4:28 pm
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:18:08 -0700, JIMMIE wrote:
> Ive had that happen too, If you can get a big pipe wrench on the
> socket.... Pay heed others cautions
Yep! :)
Annoyingly, the local tool place has sockets with 1/2" drive right up to
1-1/4" in their cheap-but-I-don't-care-as-I'll-only-use-it-once-range for
about $3, but the 1-1/2" that I'd actually need is 20-something bucks :-)
cheers
Jules
|
|
Posted by Bob F on October 2, 2009, 7:53 pm
Jules wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:18:08 -0700, JIMMIE wrote:
>> Ive had that happen too, If you can get a big pipe wrench on the
>> socket.... Pay heed others cautions
> Yep! :)
> Annoyingly, the local tool place has sockets with 1/2" drive right up
> to 1-1/4" in their
> cheap-but-I-don't-care-as-I'll-only-use-it-once-range for about $3,
> but the 1-1/2" that I'd actually need is 20-something bucks :-)
Sometimes you can buy used tools at "used tool" stores. You can rent tools at
rent-all stores. Pawn shops sometimes have a bin of used sockets for sale.
You could use a pipe elbow on the other end of the socket bar to get a different
angle on it.
Drilling out for a larger bar might work, or it could weaken the socket so it
deforms instead.
You could have a steel bar welded to the end of the socket you have.
As others have said, unless this is a fairly new heater, you might be better off
just leaving it untill the element really need to be replaced.
|
Page 3 of 3 << first < 1 2 3
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Water Heater Elements, Can I Make This Replacement? | June 10, 2006, 11:28 am |
| water heater: removing anode rod | February 13, 2007, 1:54 pm |
| how do you replace hot water tank elements? | August 25, 2005, 5:20 am |
| Replaced heating elements... water temp back to low again | December 21, 2006, 11:36 am |
| Removing an electric baseboard heater | March 27, 2008, 8:44 pm |
| Some help with range elements | February 9, 2006, 11:29 am |
| How to prevent exposure to elements? | December 3, 2005, 5:11 pm |
| Can UF cable just be left out to the elements? | June 18, 2007, 1:58 pm |
| Online Source for Stove Elements | June 2, 2007, 6:05 pm |
| How to locate ceiling heat elements? | August 10, 2008, 9:23 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>>>> case" could be right now if you keep screwing with that element.
>>>> You may not break the metal can but you can crack the glass lining.
>>> they haven't made them with glass linings for a LONG time
>>>> My bet is the bottom of that water heater is slugged solid with
>>>> scale and you will be buying a new one soon enough. At least do it
>>>> on your own schedule.