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replace sill plate in basement

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replace sill plate in basement Limp Arbor 02-20-2008
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Posted by Robatoy on February 20, 2008, 3:56 pm
>
>
> > > I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". =A0I only
> > > plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
> > > wood in
>
> > Would that be an RCH?
>
> Gentlemen prefer Blondes

SCH... Swedish... indeed.

r---> who thinks the Limp Arbor name is a good one.

Posted by Robatoy on February 20, 2008, 3:51 pm
>
>
>
>
> > > Darn termites!
>
> > > I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
> > > story house. =A0Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> > > because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> > > 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
> > > floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. =A0Jack the house 10=
'
> > > at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
> > > slide in a new PT sill.
>
> > > The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> > > The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> > > There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access=

> > > (maybe removable)
> > > The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
> > > damaged
> > > The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
> > > on this 12'
> > > Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> > > And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts=

> > > installed
>
> > > Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end=

> > > wall)
>
> > You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.- Hide quoted =
text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". =A0I only
> plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
> wood in.

That makes more sense... sorry, I tend to ask questions when I don't
'get it'.

Posted by ransley on February 20, 2008, 3:29 pm
> Darn termites!
>
> I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
> story house. =A0Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
> floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. =A0Jack the house 10'
> at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
> slide in a new PT sill.
>
> The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
> (maybe removable)
> The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
> damaged
> The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
> on this 12'
> Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
> installed
>
> Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
> wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?

Posted by Limp Arbor on February 20, 2008, 3:37 pm
>
>
>
>
>
> > Darn termites!
>
> > I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
> > story house. =A0Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> > because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> > 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
> > floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. =A0Jack the house 10'
> > at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
> > slide in a new PT sill.
>
> > The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> > The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> > There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
> > (maybe removable)
> > The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
> > damaged
> > The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
> > on this 12'
> > Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> > And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
> > installed
>
> > Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
> > wall)
>
> Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?- Hide quote=
d text -
>

I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part (sill)
requires them.

Posted by ransley on February 20, 2008, 7:15 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > Darn termites!
>
> > > I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
> > > story house. =A0Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> > > because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> > > 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
> > > floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. =A0Jack the house 10=
'
> > > at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
> > > slide in a new PT sill.
>
> > > The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> > > The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> > > There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access=

> > > (maybe removable)
> > > The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
> > > damaged
> > > The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
> > > on this 12'
> > > Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> > > And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts=

> > > installed
>
> > > Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end=

> > > wall)
>
> > Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?- Hide quo=
ted text -
>
> I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
> bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. =A0I could drill the
> new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block with
> mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet mortar.
> Tighten them up when it dries. =A0Kind of silly but this is required
> since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part (sill)
> requires them.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

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