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replace sill plate in basement Limp Arbor 02-20-2008
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Posted by J. Clarke on February 20, 2008, 7:53 pm
ransley wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>> Darn termites!
>>
>>>> I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
>>>> two-
>>>> story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
>>>> because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>>
>>>> 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because
>>>> the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
>>>> house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
>>>> sill
>>>> out then slide in a new PT sill.
>>
>>>> The last 12' however will be a PITA.
>>>> The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
>>>> There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
>>>> access (maybe removable)
>>>> The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing)
>>>> is damaged
>>>> The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all
>>>> are on this 12'
>>>> Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
>>>> And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor
>>>> bolts installed
>>
>>>> Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
>>>> gable
>>>> end wall)
>>
>>> Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
>>> Hide quoted text -
>>
>> I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
>> bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
>> the
>> new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
>> with
>> mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
>> mortar.
>> Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
>> since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
>> (sill)
>> requires them.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
> nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
> will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
> with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
> not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
> used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
> place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
> get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of 2x10s
under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute the
load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in them,
which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.

At least it worked for me.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)



Posted by on February 22, 2008, 11:07 am
> ransley wrote:
>
>
> >>>> Darn termites!
>
> >>>> I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
> >>>> two-
> >>>> story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> >>>> because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> >>>> 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because
> >>>> the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
> >>>> house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
> >>>> sill
> >>>> out then slide in a new PT sill.
>
> >>>> The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> >>>> The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> >>>> There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
> >>>> access (maybe removable)
> >>>> The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing)
> >>>> is damaged
> >>>> The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all
> >>>> are on this 12'
> >>>> Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> >>>> And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor
> >>>> bolts installed
>
> >>>> Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
> >>>> gable
> >>>> end wall)
>
> >>> Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
> >>> Hide quoted text -
>
> >> I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
> >> bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
> >> the
> >> new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
> >> with
> >> mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
> >> mortar.
> >> Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
> >> since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
> >> (sill)
> >> requires them.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
> > nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
> > will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
> > with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
> > not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
> > used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
> > place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
> > get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.
>
> Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of 2x10s
> under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute the
> load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in them,
> which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.
>
> At least it worked for me.
>
> --
> --
> --John
> to email, dial "usenet" and validate
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


A jack is going to punch a hole through two 2x10's? I just removed
the primary steel support column on the bottom floor in the middle of
the house and it did no such thing.

Posted by J. Clarke on February 22, 2008, 2:09 pm
raymondjiii@yahoo.com wrote:
>> ransley wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>>> Darn termites!
>>
>>>>>> I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
>>>>>> two-
>>>>>> story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the
>>>>>> question
>>>>>> because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>>
>>>>>> 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward
>>>>>> because
>>>>>> the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
>>>>>> house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
>>>>>> sill
>>>>>> out then slide in a new PT sill.
>>
>>>>>> The last 12' however will be a PITA.
>>>>>> The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
>>>>>> There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
>>>>>> access (maybe removable)
>>>>>> The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall
>>>>>> framing)
>>>>>> is damaged
>>>>>> The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter
>>>>>> all
>>>>>> are on this 12'
>>>>>> Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
>>>>>> And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants
>>>>>> anchor
>>>>>> bolts installed
>>
>>>>>> Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
>>>>>> gable
>>>>>> end wall)
>>
>>>>> Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
>>>>> Hide quoted text -
>>
>>>> I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
>>>> bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
>>>> the
>>>> new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
>>>> with
>>>> mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
>>>> mortar.
>>>> Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
>>>> since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
>>>> (sill)
>>>> requires them.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>>> To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It
>>> sounds
>>> nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way
>>> that
>>> will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the
>>> house
>>> with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard
>>> to
>>> not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
>>> used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
>>> place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids
>>> to
>>> get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.
>>
>> Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of
>> 2x10s
>> under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute
>> the load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in
>> them,
>> which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.
>>
>> At least it worked for me.
>>
>> --
>> --
>> --John
>> to email, dial "usenet" and validate
>> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
>
>
> A jack is going to punch a hole through two 2x10's? I just removed
> the primary steel support column on the bottom floor in the middle
> of
> the house and it did no such thing.

Depends on the 2x10s and the jack I presume. Mine was making good
progress toward going through the first one until I put the piece of
ipe under it.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)



Posted by Oren on February 20, 2008, 4:49 pm
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 12:16:55 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor

>And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
>installed

Around here they call them "redheads" - a sill anchor. ask the
inspector what he wants and satisfy him.
--
Oren

Posted by Ivan Vegvary on February 20, 2008, 7:06 pm

> Darn termites!
>
> I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
> story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
> because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.
>
> 28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
> floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the house 10'
> at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
> slide in a new PT sill.
>
> The last 12' however will be a PITA.
> The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
> There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
> (maybe removable)
> The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
> damaged
> The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
> on this 12'
> Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
> And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
> installed
>
> Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
> wall)
>

This might not help you, but I replaced the sill and the 'rim joist' from
the outside. (I know you said you have a brick facing). In my case I
removed about 2 feet of siding from the bottom, nailed on a 2"x6" ledger all
along the face of the house and jacked against the underside of the ledger.
My plate was so full of dry rot that I simply used a bench brush and brushed
it out.

Ivan Vegvary



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