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Posted by mm on June 2, 2007, 1:02 am
On Thu, 31 May 2007 15:57:22 -0000, clewis@nortelnetworks.com (Chris
Lewis) wrote:
>> 46 to 85 dollars plus shipping. One model will iiuc control two
>> pumps, although maybe it would be better to have a separate switch for
>> each????
>
>> Or you might be able to open up the current one and replace only the
>> electric switch if that seems to be the problem. I wouldn't be
>> surprised if the real problme is that the switch is loose in its
>> housing and only has to be glued back in place. Regluing so that it's
>> waterproof would be the hard part here, but maybe not so hard.
>
>Perhaps more likely that the switch assembly has gotten corroded and
>gotten stuck, or the contacts have gotten welded. A couple hard shakes
>or knocks against something might clear up the problem, but unless you
>can see the contacts, I wouldn't trust it except under "supervision" ;-)
>
>If you were to replace it, I'd be worried about getting the pump itself
>sealed again.
I looked at one of the webpages I cited, farther down, and it turns
out the switch they sell doesn't use a separate switch. It's a switch
constructed within the float, and it uses a metal ball that moves
between contacts, or not between them when the pump is off.
If this weren't a critical use, I might still try it, but you're
right, one doesn't want his sump pump to break.
>
>If you need to replace the switch, it's worth considering a plug-type
>switch instead of a direct wire. Bypass the switch circuit inside the pump,
>so the pump itself is always on, and seal the housing thoroughly. Then use a
>switch like 1002715 on http://www.pumpshop.us/pump-switches.html. Then
>if the pump or switch fails again, it's easier to replace, and you still have
>usable components.
>
>I converted a pump having one of those for utility duty (emptying a
>pool cover), simply by removing the switch. But I'm using the switch
>for something else too, sorry ;-)
>
>Local well pump shops should have these things on the shelf.
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