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rotted sill +wood filler question:help please

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rotted sill +wood filler question:help please John W 01-07-2007
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Posted by John W on January 7, 2007, 7:57 pm


I have several partially rotted sills and sill noses on my windows. Does the
wood hardner and wood fillers on the market work to harden the soft spots
and fill in the real rotted portions. Any hints on how to use them before I
get going. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

John



Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by BobK207 on January 7, 2007, 8:07 pm



John W wrote:
> I have several partially rotted sills and sill noses on my windows. Does the
> wood hardner and wood fillers on the market work to harden the soft spots
> and fill in the real rotted portions. Any hints on how to use them before I
> get going. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
>
> John

Yes they work but they're not cheap...

if volume of wood repair is large..... often removal & replacement with
real wood is cheaper & faster.

Epoxies are better (but way more expensive) than Bondo (ester resins)

www.abatron.com

Where are you located? I've used the wood repair products with great
success in SoCal but in very wet environments complete epoxy coverage
of wood sills can trap moisture & cause other problems.

cheers
Bob


Posted by tbasc@bellsouth.net on January 7, 2007, 8:28 pm



BobK207 wrote:
> John W wrote:
> > I have several partially rotted sills and sill noses on my windows. Does the
> > wood hardner and wood fillers on the market work to harden the soft spots
> > and fill in the real rotted portions. Any hints on how to use them before I
> > get going. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
> >
> > John
>
> Yes they work but they're not cheap...
>
> if volume of wood repair is large..... often removal & replacement with
> real wood is cheaper & faster.
>
> Epoxies are better (but way more expensive) than Bondo (ester resins)
> .
> www.abatron.com
>
> Where are you located? I've used the wood repair products with great
> success in SoCal but in very wet environments complete epoxy coverage
> of wood sills can trap moisture & cause other problems.
>
> cheers
> Bob

To add to Bob's comments.
I've used the same epoxy system with good results in Charleston South
Carolina.
As Bob says, the wood has to be dry.
If it is not, the spores and moisture in the wood go to work around the
repair.
One has to follow directions exactly.
I've had a couple of instances of creative mixing and application go
wrong.
TB


Posted by Joe on January 7, 2007, 9:37 pm



John W wrote:
> I have several partially rotted sills and sill noses on my windows. Does the
> wood hardner and wood fillers on the market work to harden the soft spots
> and fill in the real rotted portions. Any hints on how to use them before I
> get going. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
>
> John

MinWax makes a kit that works well on small areas. I have some decent
repairs a few years old. Just buy the kit, read and follow the
directions and try to mitigate the water problem that may have started
it in the first place, bad flashing, etc. Good luck.

Joe


Posted by deans@wdeans.com on January 7, 2007, 11:49 pm


John W wrote:
> I have several partially rotted sills and sill noses on my windows. Does the
> wood hardner and wood fillers on the market work to harden the soft spots
> and fill in the real rotted portions. Any hints on how to use them before I
> get going. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
>
> John

Greetings,

If your windows are rotting outside just cap them with metal. Who
cares what happens under the metal where no one can see?

When Bondo costs too much because of the volume of wood to repair I
have been able to screw down into the good wood and leave the screws
heads sticking way out into the large chunk of missing wood. Then I
use stiff Type M masonry mortar (you don't want it to shrink) to fill
in the rotted area and keep it moist for about 72 hours (tape an empty
cheese-puf bag over it or something). The rotted area must be a large
chunk without thin spots. If the shape of the stricken area is not a
large chunk use a minimum of a 1.5" hole saw to make a large missing
chunk without any "thin" areas. This is the cheapest way per cubic
foot that actually works. If your budget is slightly more but still
way less than bondo then you might mix your mortar with some latex
admixture. If you paint your finished product no one will be able to
tell.

Hope this helps,
William


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