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safe? Using r-shack "tap-in squeeze connectors" for 110-AC?

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safe? Using r-shack "tap-in squeeze connectors" for 110-AC? David Combs 08-10-2005
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Posted by Bob Vaughan on August 10, 2005, 12:25 pm


>(snipped extensive rambling which amounts to: how to repair fan wire?)
>Not safe, is the answer.
>Butt connectors I use for telephone wires but not high current appliances.
>Further, crimpable connectors are best used with solid wire not multistrand
>such as on fans.

This depends on the connector. For the butt splices that the OP was asking
about, they actually work best on stranded wire, and are perfectly safe if
properly installed.

The 3M telephone jellybeans are a different design, and do work best on
solid wire, although I have used them with tinned stranded wire with
good success.

>The only safe way to fix, is to take base off fan, remove all of line cord
>at terminal block, and replace cord with comparable or heavier guage
>stranded appliance wire, with moulded (already attached plug).
>

In this case, the OP stated that the cord was damaged just outside the fan,
so the only thing that he would need to do is to shorten the existing cord,
and re-terminate. If there is a terminal block, then no problem, if it's
just pigtails spliced inside the fan, then he would need s butt-splice or
similar.



--
-- Welcome My Son, Welcome To The Machine --
Bob Vaughan | techie @ tantivy.net                  |
         | P.O. Box 19792, Stanford, Ca 94309 |
-- I am Me, I am only Me, And no one else is Me, What could be simpler? --


Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by Bob Vaughan on August 10, 2005, 12:15 pm


>AC line-cord for my table-fan (Vornado) finally frayed
>(just outside the fan), and so I need to toss that
>bad spot on the line-cord, and then reconnect the
>slightly-shortened power cord to the same wires
>inside the fan it was hooked to before.
>
>
>Noticed these things called "tap-in squeeze connectors",
>and bought several envelopes-full:
>
> some red ones (64-3053), for 12 to 10 gauge.
>
> some yellow ones, and blue ones.
>
>To use these things, you of course strip the wire-end,
>then insert one wire into one end, and the other into
>the other, and then with levered-type pliers you
>squeeze it like hell, and a little guillotine-like
>piece gets shoved against the two wires, and that makes
>the connection.
>
>QUESTION: is it ok to use these things for making
>the connection?
>

I would not use these for 120v connections.. they sort of work for
12v in the car, but I don't consider them to be reliable, and avoid
using them.
The online catalog lists the as "Low Voltage Tap-Ins", which tells me that
they are not intended for 120v use.

>
>ALSO: they also have little yellow tubes, maybe 1.5
>inches long, called "Butt Connectors:".
>
>No instructions, though, for these, not even a hint
>of how to use it.
>
>What, you're supposed to *crush* it somehow, once
>you have the two (insulated) wire's stuck into the
>two ends of the tube?
>
>Anyone know what to do?>

You strip the wires about 1/4", and insert the ends into the metal portion
of the tube, and crimp with the proper crimp tool. I have used vice grips
in a pinch, but the tool is the right way. If you have a pair of wire
wire strippers, check them, many have the crimp function as well.
The radio shack tool is 64-2984 $6.99

If properly crimped, they work fine, if not, the wire can pull out.
The trick is to pull on the wire after crimping, and if it pulls apart, cut
it off, and start over with a new but splice.

They are color coded, and you really need to use the correct size for the
wire you are using. red for 22-18 gauge 64-3108, blue for 16-14 gauge 64-3109,
and yellow for 12-10 gauge 64-3110. Using the wrong size means that you will
either not get the wire into the splice, or you will not get a secure crimp.
You also need to use the correct die on the crimp tool in order to get a good
crimp.

(I use a lot of crimp connectors, and have a very high quality ratcheting
crimp tool dedicated to the task.)

>
>(FYI: The yellow ones have part-num 64-3110.)
>
>And safety with this one (for use for putting a
>power cord onto an appliance)?

Like any connector, they can be installed improperly, and create a hazard,
but if properly installed, they are fine.

If you can, open up the fan, and put the splice inside the unit, and reuse the
strain relief on the cord.
--
-- Welcome My Son, Welcome To The Machine --
Bob Vaughan | techie @ tantivy.net                  |
         | P.O. Box 19792, Stanford, Ca 94309 |
-- I am Me, I am only Me, And no one else is Me, What could be simpler? --


Posted by Bud on August 11, 2005, 10:08 am


Bob Vaughan wrote:
>
>>AC line-cord for my table-fan (Vornado) finally frayed
>>(just outside the fan), and so I need to toss that
>>bad spot on the line-cord, and then reconnect the
>>slightly-shortened power cord to the same wires
>>inside the fan it was hooked to before.
>>
>>
>>Noticed these things called "tap-in squeeze connectors",
>>and bought several envelopes-full:
>>
>> some red ones (64-3053), for 12 to 10 gauge.
>>
>> some yellow ones, and blue ones.
>>
>>To use these things, you of course strip the wire-end,
>>then insert one wire into one end, and the other into
>>the other, and then with levered-type pliers you
>>squeeze it like hell, and a little guillotine-like
>>piece gets shoved against the two wires, and that makes
>>the connection.
>>
>>QUESTION: is it ok to use these things for making
>>the connection?
>>
>
>
> I would not use these for 120v connections.. they sort of work for
> 12v in the car, but I don't consider them to be reliable, and avoid
> using them.
> The online catalog lists the as "Low Voltage Tap-Ins", which tells me that
> they are not intended for 120v use.
>

There are some "insulation displacement" splices and taps that are rated
for 120V

>
>>ALSO: they also have little yellow tubes, maybe 1.5
>>inches long, called "Butt Connectors:".
>>
>>No instructions, though, for these, not even a hint
>>of how to use it.
>>
>>What, you're supposed to *crush* it somehow, once
>>you have the two (insulated) wire's stuck into the
>>two ends of the tube?
>>
>>Anyone know what to do?>
>
>
> You strip the wires about 1/4", and insert the ends into the metal portion
> of the tube, and crimp with the proper crimp tool. I have used vice grips
> in a pinch, but the tool is the right way. If you have a pair of wire
> wire strippers, check them, many have the crimp function as well.
> The radio shack tool is 64-2984 $6.99
>
> If properly crimped, they work fine, if not, the wire can pull out.
> The trick is to pull on the wire after crimping, and if it pulls apart, cut
> it off, and start over with a new but splice.
>
> They are color coded, and you really need to use the correct size for the
> wire you are using. red for 22-18 gauge 64-3108, blue for 16-14 gauge 64-3109,
> and yellow for 12-10 gauge 64-3110. Using the wrong size means that you will
> either not get the wire into the splice, or you will not get a secure crimp.
> You also need to use the correct die on the crimp tool in order to get a good
> crimp.
>
> (I use a lot of crimp connectors, and have a very high quality ratcheting
> crimp tool dedicated to the task.)
>
>
>>(FYI: The yellow ones have part-num 64-3110.)
>>
>>And safety with this one (for use for putting a
>>power cord onto an appliance)?
>
>
> Like any connector, they can be installed improperly, and create a hazard,
> but if properly installed, they are fine.
>
> If you can, open up the fan, and put the splice inside the unit, and reuse the
> strain relief on the cord.

I agree the best solution is to splice inside the fan.

I doubt the other splices indicated above are intended to be installed
exposed and to take strain in the cord.

How about installing a plug on the end of the cord and plugging it into
an extension cord.

Bud--


Posted by Bob Vaughan on August 11, 2005, 7:20 pm


>Bob Vaughan wrote:
>>
>>>AC line-cord for my table-fan (Vornado) finally frayed
>>>(just outside the fan), and so I need to toss that
>>>bad spot on the line-cord, and then reconnect the
>>>slightly-shortened power cord to the same wires
>>>inside the fan it was hooked to before.
>>>
>>
>>

>
>I agree the best solution is to splice inside the fan.
>
>I doubt the other splices indicated above are intended to be installed
>exposed and to take strain in the cord.
>
>How about installing a plug on the end of the cord and plugging it into
>an extension cord.


Re-read for context.. where on the cord is the damage? where does the
repair need to be made?


>
>Bud--


--
-- Welcome My Son, Welcome To The Machine --
Bob Vaughan | techie @ tantivy.net                  |
         | P.O. Box 19792, Stanford, Ca 94309 |
-- I am Me, I am only Me, And no one else is Me, What could be simpler? --


Posted by Bud on August 11, 2005, 5:53 pm


Bob Vaughan wrote:
>
>
> Re-read for context..

Sorry about that.

Looking at the Radio Shack website:

64-3053 (red) connectors are for low voltage

64-3052 (blue) connectors #18-14 - not specified but presumably line voltage

These are "insulation displacement connectors" - you don't strip the
wire; the "guilotine" cuts through the insulation and makes contact with
the wire. Because of the guilotine it is important that the wire sizes
be in the range the connector is rated for. (Also important for crimp.)

The blue ones should work (would be nice to know the temperature rating
though)

3M makes similar connectors rated for 600V, 90°C, UL listed, solid or
stranded wire (#557, 558, 560)


Butt connectors come rated for line voltage or low voltage. (Radio Shack
does not specify on 3110).
Also available are connectors that look like a wire nut.
Both the 2 above are crimped to make the connection as described well a
couple posts back

Another posibility is a small wire nut. It is not ideal because of
vibration.

Ideally the connector should be UL listed, rated for line voltage and
rated for the temperature it will encounter in the fan.

If you have a torch you could solder - very carefully.

Bud--


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