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shimming door hinge coloradotrout 01-06-2009
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Posted by Oren on January 6, 2009, 5:55 pm
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:50:18 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout

>> >This does not seem right to me -- but it did resolve my issue.
>> >I have an exterior door that the door used to be 'cocked' a bit in the
>> >frame such that the weather seal did not seal well all around the
>> >door.  There was a gap along the bottom of the latch side.  The botton
>> >latch side of the door needed to be lifted about 1/8" to make the door
>> >fit better into the frame.  I added a shim to the bottom hinge --
>> >pushig the hinge out about 1/8".  It's a nice fit all around now.
>> >I did some checks to see that the frame was perpendicular and it
>> >checked out ok (plumb bob).  I did not chech to see that the top of
>> >frame was square to the sides nor that the bottom was square to sides,
>> >but visually, the door was just not "square" inside the frame.  The
>> >bottom hinge side ( the hinge I shimmed) fit snug to the frame, while
>> >the top hinge side was 3/16" open.
>> >To me, it seemed that the hinges were allowing slightly more or less
>> >of an opening between the door and the frame - almost like the hinges
>> >were not the same.
>> >This is a Jeld-Wen exterior door.
>> It sounds like the hinge-side jamb has twisted. To fix it:
>>  * Take the door off the hinges.
>>  * Remove the casing (the trim around the opening).
>>  * Remove the screws holding the jamb to the rough opening (or saw
>> through the nails if that's what's there).
>>  * Put tapered shims behind the hinge points to cause the jamb to be
>> vertical and square. Use a four- or six-foot level and a good square.
>>  * Drive long screws through the hinges, though the shims, and into the
>> 2x4s of the rough opening. Leave them a little loose so you can adjust
>> things.
>>  * While you're in there, you might as well do the same thing to the
>> jamb on the knob side as well.
>>  * Double-check that the top and bottom of the opening are equal.
>>  * Put the door back up.
>>  * Make sure the opening on all sides is consistent. You probably can't
>> get it back to the factory condition, so just get it as close as you
>> can. Also check that it doesn't swing open or closed by itself. This
>> would be an indication that something isn't plumb.
>>  * Drive all the screws down tight, and check everything one more time.
>>  * Put the casing back on, fill nail holes, caulk edges, and paint.
>> --
>> Steve Bell
>> New Life Home Improvement
>> Arlington, TX USA- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>I initially thought the same thing, but now I'm really thinking the
>issue is with the hinges themselves. It's like the top and middle
>hinges don't close together as closely as that bottom hinge?
>I was about to undertake the procedure you outlined (but thanks for
>detailed instructions in case I need to do this), but when I look down
>at the hinges, the bottom hinge plates are closer together than the
>middle and top.
>Ah.. but I just took a measurment from hinge side frame to lock side
>frame. At the top it measures 36", at the center, it's 36-2/16" and
>bottom it's about 36-3/16", so it's spreading out top to bottom.
>Sounds like I need to do the procedure afterall. At least for now, it
>seals up better.

Sounds like the jamb is bowed. When is was installed and over fastened
it pulled the jamb inward towards the RO studs. Use a level on each
side jamb and both sides of the stop. See a difference in space
behind the level?

If it's bowed like you mention then pull the door casing off and
gently pry the jamb out where need be to remove the bow. Shims may be
needed...



Posted by coloradotrout on January 7, 2009, 12:44 pm
> On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:50:18 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout
> >> >This does not seem right to me -- but it did resolve my issue.
> >> >I have an exterior door that the door used to be 'cocked' a bit in th=
e
> >> >frame such that the weather seal did not seal well all around the
> >> >door. =A0There was a gap along the bottom of the latch side. =A0The b=
otton
> >> >latch side of the door needed to be lifted about 1/8" to make the doo=
r
> >> >fit better into the frame. =A0I added a shim to the bottom hinge --
> >> >pushig the hinge out about 1/8". =A0It's a nice fit all around now.
> >> >I did some checks to see that the frame was perpendicular and it
> >> >checked out ok (plumb bob). =A0I did not chech to see that the top of
> >> >frame was square to the sides nor that the bottom was square to sides=
,
> >> >but visually, the door was just not "square" inside the frame. =A0The
> >> >bottom hinge side ( the hinge I shimmed) fit snug to the frame, while
> >> >the top hinge side was 3/16" open.
> >> >To me, it seemed that the hinges were allowing slightly more or less
> >> >of an opening between the door and the frame - almost like the hinges
> >> >were not the same.
> >> >This is a Jeld-Wen exterior door.
> >> It sounds like the hinge-side jamb has twisted. To fix it:
> >> =A0* Take the door off the hinges.
> >> =A0* Remove the casing (the trim around the opening).
> >> =A0* Remove the screws holding the jamb to the rough opening (or saw
> >> through the nails if that's what's there).
> >> =A0* Put tapered shims behind the hinge points to cause the jamb to be
> >> vertical and square. Use a four- or six-foot level and a good square.
> >> =A0* Drive long screws through the hinges, though the shims, and into =
the
> >> 2x4s of the rough opening. Leave them a little loose so you can adjust
> >> things.
> >> =A0* While you're in there, you might as well do the same thing to the
> >> jamb on the knob side as well.
> >> =A0* Double-check that the top and bottom of the opening are equal.
> >> =A0* Put the door back up.
> >> =A0* Make sure the opening on all sides is consistent. You probably ca=
n't
> >> get it back to the factory condition, so just get it as close as you
> >> can. Also check that it doesn't swing open or closed by itself. This
> >> would be an indication that something isn't plumb.
> >> =A0* Drive all the screws down tight, and check everything one more ti=
me.
> >> =A0* Put the casing back on, fill nail holes, caulk edges, and paint.
> >> --
> >> Steve Bell
> >> New Life Home Improvement
> >> Arlington, TX USA- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
> >I initially thought the same thing, but now I'm really thinking the
> >issue is with the hinges themselves. =A0It's like the top and middle
> >hinges don't close together as closely as that bottom hinge?
> >I was about to undertake the procedure you outlined (but thanks for
> >detailed instructions in case I need to do this), but when I look down
> >at the hinges, the bottom hinge plates are closer together than the
> >middle and top.
> >Ah.. but I just took a measurment from hinge side frame to lock side
> >frame. =A0At the top it measures 36", at the center, it's 36-2/16" and
> >bottom it's about 36-3/16", so it's spreading out top to bottom.
> >Sounds like I need to do the procedure afterall. =A0At least for now, it
> >seals up better.
> Sounds like the jamb is bowed. When is was installed and over fastened
> it pulled the jamb inward towards the RO studs. =A0Use a level on each
> side =A0jamb and both sides of the stop. See a difference in space
> behind the level?
> If it's bowed like you mention then pull the door casing off and
> gently pry the jamb out where need be to remove the bow. Shims may be
> needed...- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Yeah.. looks like when weather warms up, I'll be pulling off the
interior/exterior trim and truing up the frame. That should give me
an even snugger fit.

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