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Posted by BobK207 on October 22, 2006, 1:16 am
Eigenvector wrote:
> >
> > Eigenvector wrote:
> >> I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
> >> for
> >> the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted into
> >> a
> >> cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in the
> >> bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found about
> >> 4
> >> of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large cutout
> >> in
> >> put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
> >> into
> >> the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
> >> designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
> >> putting
> >> a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
> >> that's
> >> done in the first place.
> >>
> >> None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
> >> framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
> >> at
> >> ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
> >>
> >> BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".
> >
> > EV-
> >
> > If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
> > from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
> > one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
> > compromised by the hatchet job.
> >
> > In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
> > RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor
> >
> >> None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact the
> >> framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm looking
> >> at
> >> ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
> >
> > I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
> > up?
> >
> >
> > Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16
> >
> > cheers
> > Bob
> >
>
> Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
> Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too important.
>
> I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it while
> I have a good opportunity
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenvector/houseideas/websize/PA210055.JPG
> That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
> small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
> daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
> trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
> addition.
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenvector/houseideas/websize/PA210056.JPG
> there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
> attached to the foundation.
>
> Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
> just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
> I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.
>
> As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for over
> my way.
EV-
Good photos.....What I got out of them is....the sill does contact but
intermitently / incompletely.
If it really bothers you & you want the final result to be as if the
concrete / sill interface had been done right...........I'd fill it
with SiKA Sikadur Epoxy fast set....... Stronger than concrete.
If you just want to fill the gap (non-structural) use caulk or foam.
The sill bolts are a hack job but unless you have e/q's or high
winds........
If you don't want to do the double wedge anchors....consider a coupling
nut . Add a large washer to span cut & bolt to tighten the whole
thing up.
I'd do the double wedge anchors, probably faster & easier..
cheers
Bob
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