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Posted by Eigenvector on October 22, 2006, 1:22 am
>
> Eigenvector wrote:
>> >
>> > Eigenvector wrote:
>> >> I've seen this in a few houses, my own included, where the anchor bolt
>> >> for
>> >> the sill plate is not inserted into the framing but rather inserted
>> >> into
>> >> a
>> >> cutout and pounded flat into the wood. Can this be corrected, as in
>> >> the
>> >> bolt straightened and properly tied to the sill plate? I've found
>> >> about
>> >> 4
>> >> of these bolts and all of them are done in the same way, a large
>> >> cutout
>> >> in
>> >> put in the sill plate the bolt is then pounded over until it is mashed
>> >> into
>> >> the plate. I guess that's secure, somewhat, but probably not what the
>> >> designers had in mind. In fact doing that was probably harder than
>> >> putting
>> >> a nut on the bolt and fastening it down - which makes me wonder why
>> >> that's
>> >> done in the first place.
>> >>
>> >> None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
>> >> the
>> >> framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm
>> >> looking
>> >> at
>> >> ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
>> >>
>> >> BTW: Why is drywall so expensive? 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8".
>> >
>> > EV-
>> >
>> > If you're concerned about the anchors & sill ......I'd move ~ 1' away
>> > from the defective one & install new ones (two for each f'd up
>> > one)......overkill but I cannot tell from here if the sill is somewhat
>> > compromised by the hatchet job.
>> >
>> > In seismic areas I'd use a Sika epoxy....non-seismic a Hilti Quik bolt,
>> > RedHead or Rawl wedge anchor
>> >
>> >> None of the framing in my basement is tied to the foundation, in fact
>> >> the
>> >> framing sits about 1/2 off the surface of the foundation so I'm
>> >> looking
>> >> at
>> >> ways to correct this before I close the wall up with new drywall.
>> >
>> > I don't understand this comment .....what's it sitting on if it's 1/2"
>> > up?
>> >
>> >
>> > Where are you located? 5/8" drywall in SoCal is not $16
>> >
>> > cheers
>> > Bob
>> >
>>
>> Maybe I ought to take a photo of this to make it clearer what I mean.
>> Although based on what Pawlowski indicated it doesn't sound too
>> important.
>>
>> I personally am not worried about it so much as I'd like to correct it
>> while
>> I have a good opportunity
>>
>> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenvector/houseideas/websize/PA210055.JPG
>> That's pretty representative of the gap, the actual board is resting on a
>> small nubbin of concrete, but it ain't much. Its wide enough to see
>> daylight through, wide enough for the buggies to get in without too much
>> trouble. The house is post and pier foundation, the basement was an
>> addition.
>>
>> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenvector/houseideas/websize/PA210056.JPG
>> there's the bolt, again pretty representative of how the sill plate is
>> attached to the foundation.
>>
>> Again, since the wall IS going to be open (as if I haven't started yet) I
>> just kind of wondered if there was something I could do about it. So far
>> I've been stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, pretty handy really.
>>
>> As to 16 bucks a sheet for 5/8", that's what Lowe's is selling it for
>> over
>> my way.
>
>
> EV-
>
> Good photos.....What I got out of them is....the sill does contact but
> intermitently / incompletely.
>
> If it really bothers you & you want the final result to be as if the
> concrete / sill interface had been done right...........I'd fill it
> with SiKA Sikadur Epoxy fast set....... Stronger than concrete.
>
> If you just want to fill the gap (non-structural) use caulk or foam.
>
> The sill bolts are a hack job but unless you have e/q's or high
> winds........
>
> If you don't want to do the double wedge anchors....consider a coupling
> nut . Add a large washer to span cut & bolt to tighten the whole
> thing up.
>
> I'd do the double wedge anchors, probably faster & easier..
>
> cheers
> Bob
>
Alright, thank you.
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