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slab thickness lelson 06-14-2005
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Posted by G Henslee on June 14, 2005, 6:01 pm
SQLit wrote:
>
>>My contractor has specified a 4" thick slab on grade for a new garage
>>floor. Is this the accepted thickness? I've read that driveways should
>>be 5" thick and house foundations 8-10" thick. The plans *do* call out
>>reinforcement.
>>
>>Comments?
>
>
> Just what are you planning on driving on a 5 inch slab? A Fire Truck?
>
> 4 inches is standard, usually 3500 psi concrete. Some use rebar some use
> steel mats. Saw cut every 10 feet for expansion.


The OP said he read the info. Must have been a handout from the
National Concrete Mfger's Association

Posted by Chris Lewis on June 15, 2005, 9:10 am
>
> > My contractor has specified a 4" thick slab on grade for a new garage
> > floor. Is this the accepted thickness? I've read that driveways should
> > be 5" thick and house foundations 8-10" thick. The plans *do* call out
> > reinforcement.

> > Comments?

> Just what are you planning on driving on a 5 inch slab? A Fire Truck?

> 4 inches is standard, usually 3500 psi concrete. Some use rebar some use
> steel mats. Saw cut every 10 feet for expansion.

Some use fiberglass fiber reinforcement instead. I did ;-)

> Foundations are broken up into parts called footings and stem walls. The
> thickness is directly proportional to the height of the building. Where I
> live the footings are minimum of 12 deep x 18 wide about 18 inches below
> grade. That makes the stem walls 10-12 inches wide and 20-24 inches high.
> If you live in frost country, other considerations are necessary.

Yeah, you generally need to get below the frost line. Here, it's at least
4'.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by SteveB on June 15, 2005, 4:04 pm


>
> Just what are you planning on driving on a 5 inch slab? A Fire Truck?
>
> 4 inches is standard, usually 3500 psi concrete.

My motorhome is 21,000 #. Now, I don't put it in the garage because it is
too tall, but I do drive on the driveway. And when I go visit, I drive it
on other people's driveways, too. Hope they have a good one, and didn't get
the cheapo economy cut cost save a little money now and pay for it later
kind of deal from their contractor.

The way I think of it, I want to know if I ever wanted to drive a fire truck
on it, I could.

Steve



Posted by butch burton on June 15, 2005, 6:29 pm
Anybody answer how thick and what PSI concrete one should have for a
driveway to support a 25K# truck or trailer?

Also how pricey is it to have a testing person to do a slump test on
site.

In my neck of the woods (S WI) the big bear of a problem here is chert
- for some reason in the winter the stuff explodes leaving divots in
the concrete. Seems the cheap jobs and the city sidewalks all have
these divots.


Posted by Chris Lewis on June 16, 2005, 9:59 am
> Anybody answer how thick and what PSI concrete one should have for a
> driveway to support a 25K# truck or trailer?

I think this needs 6", plus a well compacted gravel base, and rebar/mesh.
4000PSI or better methinks.

> Also how pricey is it to have a testing person to do a slump test on
> site.

It shouldn't be necessary - just stress to the supplier that it
needs to be on-spec.

> In my neck of the woods (S WI) the big bear of a problem here is chert
> - for some reason in the winter the stuff explodes leaving divots in
> the concrete. Seems the cheap jobs and the city sidewalks all have
> these divots.

Sounds like "spalling", rather than issues with chert. Usually
caused by inadequate air entrainment. This is something you
specify when you order. You're best off hiring a "real" concrete
contractor to do the job or at least spec it out for you. A civil
engineer could be used to spec the thing if you're going to contract
it out yourself.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Page 2 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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