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Posted by DerbyDad03 on June 17, 2008, 11:48 am
wrote:
> =A0 =A0 If your home is over say 5 -10 years old, it is very possible that=
you
> have anti-hammer devices in the walls, buy they have become saturated to t=
he
> point they no longer work. =A0There is a cheap fix for this. =A0 You need =
to
> turn off the main water supply.
>
> NOTE: Turn the water heart off first.
> NOTE: In older homes it is possible that the old valve may not be up to
> being turned off and on again.
>
> =A0 =A0 Next open a low valve (both hot and cold), like one in the basemen=
t to
> let water run out of the pipes. =A0It may help to open the upper valves as=
> well. =A0Let the water drain. =A0 Then turn the water back on (I suggest t=
urning
> it on slowly.) then closing all those valves. =A0That should do it.
>
>
>
> > in the winter it really rattles the pipes, in the summer it just has a
> > big vacuum sound. This only happens when someone turns off the cold
> > water very quickly and only in the one sink in the upstairs bathroom.
> > If they turn it off very slowly there is no problem so I was thinking
> > if I replaced the faucet handles with ones that don't turn off in one
> > big push. (the handle I have right now is a push up for on and push
> > down for off). Is there any easier way to stop this from happening? I
> > can't imagine the vibration is good for the pipes.
>
> --
> Joseph Meehan
>
> =A0Dia 's Muire duit
I just recently followed the procedure (more or less) that Mr. Meehan
detailed and it eliminated the water hammer I was getting from my
washer. I do it every few years or whenever water hammer occurs.
The difference in my process is that I open every faucet, showers and
outdoor spigots included, to drain the system as much as possible.
One other point: When you turn the main shutoff (or any shutoff) back
on, turn it fully on, then close it about an 1/8 of a turn. The reason
for this is to give you a little room to move the handle in the "open"
direction in case it seizes up and you can't turn it off. If you open
it hard against the stop, you increase the chance of it seizing and
you'll have no "wiggle room" to free it up. Of course, this only
applies to gate valve shut offs, not ball valves.
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