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small engine: wouldn't run, now won't start.

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small engine: wouldn't run, now won't start. George 05-26-2006
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Posted by George on May 26, 2006, 8:27 am
Stihl FS36 string trimmer. Walbro carb, diaphragm pump.

Sad story: starting last year, it would lose power after running for 15 mins or
so. I could usually keep it going by nursing the throttle for a while, after
which it would return to normal power for a few minutes, and then do they same
thing again. This year, it did that same thing the first time I ran it; but,
after that, it would die after running for about 30 seconds. I restarted OK,
but then just died again.

Spark seems OK, but I replaced the plug anyway. No help.

I got a carb rebuild kit, and replaced the filter, needle valve, and the fuel
pump and regulator diaphragms. This was a 'learning experience', and didn't go
that smoothly; but, I got it back to where it would ... do the same thing -
start, run 30 secs, die.

Then, I took out the high-speed adjust screw. (Not gummed up.) Since then, it
won't start. Alas.

The needle valve appears to be working: if I pump the primer bulb with the
regulator diaphragm removed, nothing comes up out of the needle until I press on
the actuator lever; when I do, fuel wells up into the regulator chamber.

AFAICT, the regulator diaphragm is working: if I pump the primer with the carb
assembled, it gets fuel to the regulator chamber. And, if I don't pump the
primer, the regulator stays dry. However, I could be confused about what I'm
seeing, or how to interpret it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Questions:
1. When I press the primer, should I see fuel squirt into the carb throat? (I
don't.)

2. Should I have (liquid) fuel sitting in the crankcase, after trying to start
it repeatedly? (I do.)

Thanks,
George

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Posted by Tom G on May 26, 2006, 9:53 am

> Stihl FS36 string trimmer. Walbro carb, diaphragm pump.
>
> Sad story: starting last year, it would lose power after running for 15
> mins or
> so. I could usually keep it going by nursing the throttle for a while,
> after
> which it would return to normal power for a few minutes, and then do they
> same
> thing again. This year, it did that same thing the first time I ran it;
> but,
> after that, it would die after running for about 30 seconds. I restarted
> OK,
> but then just died again.
>
> Spark seems OK, but I replaced the plug anyway. No help.
>
> I got a carb rebuild kit, and replaced the filter, needle valve, and the
> fuel
> pump and regulator diaphragms. This was a 'learning experience', and
> didn't go
> that smoothly; but, I got it back to where it would ... do the same
> thing -
> start, run 30 secs, die.
>
> Then, I took out the high-speed adjust screw. (Not gummed up.) Since
> then, it
> won't start. Alas.
>
> The needle valve appears to be working: if I pump the primer bulb with the
> regulator diaphragm removed, nothing comes up out of the needle until I
> press on
> the actuator lever; when I do, fuel wells up into the regulator chamber.
>
> AFAICT, the regulator diaphragm is working: if I pump the primer with the
> carb
> assembled, it gets fuel to the regulator chamber. And, if I don't pump
> the
> primer, the regulator stays dry. However, I could be confused about what
> I'm
> seeing, or how to interpret it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Questions:
> 1. When I press the primer, should I see fuel squirt into the carb throat?
> (I
> don't.)
>
> 2. Should I have (liquid) fuel sitting in the crankcase, after trying to
> start
> it repeatedly? (I do.)
>
> Thanks,
> George
Not sure about your questions but I had a similar problem with a lawn mower
and garden tractor this year. Lawn mower would only run while pumping the
primer bulb and garden tractor only with full choke until finally not at
all. Had to disassemble the carbs on both and blow all of the passages out
with my air compressor. When put back together they ran just fine. I think
last years gas had jelled and plugged up a vital passageway in the carbs.
Didn't put gasoline stabilizer in last fall as I was in too much of a hurry
to head for Arizona.

Tom G.



Posted by Hogwild on May 26, 2006, 10:01 am
If you have fuel in the crankcase, fuel is not a problem. That is a
normal flooded condition for a 2-stroke motor.

Unless your carb settings are way off, it sounds like an ignition
problem.

To check for this you can take the plug out, connect and ground it and
pull to see if there is a spark.

If not, check all connections, look for loose wires or a buildup of
grease or grunge on anything. This could ground and shut the motor
off. Clean it well. After cleaning you can apply a silicone spray to
protect and insulate all the electrical components.

If still no spark, change the plug - try that.

Sometimes the electronic ignition systems develop an internal short
that is first noticed intermittently until it fails completely.


Posted by George on May 26, 2006, 10:11 am
On Fri, 26 May 2006 14:01:42 GMT, no@spam.invalid (Hogwild) wrote:

>Unless your carb settings are way off, it sounds like an ignition
>problem.
>
>To check for this you can take the plug out, connect and ground it and
>pull to see if there is a spark.

I'd donethat - the spark looks good.


Posted by Ulysses on May 26, 2006, 6:05 pm

> On Fri, 26 May 2006 14:01:42 GMT, no@spam.invalid (Hogwild) wrote:
>
> >Unless your carb settings are way off, it sounds like an ignition
> >problem.
> >
> >To check for this you can take the plug out, connect and ground it and
> >pull to see if there is a spark.
>
> I'd donethat - the spark looks good.
>

Me too and it still turned out to be a bad ignition coil. Sometimes they
will become intermittant before they finally die.



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