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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by RicodJour on May 5, 2008, 11:08 pm
> > I'm not familiar with Rock Miracle, so I looked at their website. Which
> > product did you
> > use?
>
> This is the product I
usedhttp://www.rockmiracle.com/productdetail.asp?cid=8&pid=45
>
> It is a methylene chloride paste like you mentioned, but like I said
> it did not come off easy on the flat parts of the door.
> For the molding, I tried using my plumbers torch to heat the old
> varnish a bit, then use a soft wire brush, but it seemed not to come
> off clean plus I had to be careful not to burn the wood.
> I do have a Dremel tool. Just a basic model. Maybe they have bits for
> this purpose?
I'm not sure why you'd want to use such toxic chemicals in the first
place. Peel-Away makes a whole line of strippers that work on just
about anything and most of them are non-toxic.
http://www.dumondchemicals.com/html/peelaway.htm
For a door such as yours the materials would cost about 30 bucks,
you'd slather the stuff on, cover it with the fabric and go away for a
day. When you strip off the fabric the next day almost all of the
varnish would come with it, and what was left is easily scraped off
with a profiled scraper.
You have a nice door. It does look like mahogany. Don't mess it up
with gouges and scrapes. Don't paint the panels and stain the rest.
R
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Posted by dadiOH on May 6, 2008, 8:15 am
Mikepier wrote:
>> I'm not familiar with Rock Miracle, so I looked at their website.
>> Which product did you
>> use?
>
> This is the product I used
> http://www.rockmiracle.com/productdetail.asp?cid=8&pid=45
>
> It is a methylene chloride paste like you mentioned, but like I said
> it did not come off easy on the flat parts of the door.
> For the molding, I tried using my plumbers torch to heat the old
> varnish a bit, then use a soft wire brush, but it seemed not to come
> off clean plus I had to be careful not to burn the wood.
> I do have a Dremel tool. Just a basic model. Maybe they have bits for
> this purpose?
A flap disk would help. I'm not thinking of the kind that look like a small
wheel but of those that have numerous strips of aluminum oxide cloth with
the ends of the strips slit. You can make your own by cutting a bunch of
aluminum oxide cloth strips each maybe 1-2" wide and 5-6" long. Make
numerous 2" slits in both ends of each then lay them on top of each other so
that they form a circle; i.e., lay down one, lay the next at 90 degrees to
the first, lay the third bisecting those and repeat but with the opposite
side up. Do that several times. Make a hole in the stack, insert a bolt
with fender washers on both sides, add a nut and chuck in a drill (not
Dremel tool).
In use, the little fingers resulting from the slits get into the detail but
don't sand very agressively so they don't destroy the detail; soften it a
bit but not seriously. IMO. I'd probably use #120 cloth.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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Posted by ransley on May 6, 2008, 9:18 am
> > I'm not familiar with Rock Miracle, so I looked at their website. =A0Whi=
ch
> > product did you
> > use?
>
> This is the product I usedhttp://www.rockmiracle.com/productdetail.asp?cid=
=3D8&pid=3D45
>
> It is a methylene chloride paste like you mentioned, but like I said
> it did not come off easy on the flat parts of the door.
> For the molding, I tried using my plumbers torch to heat the old
> varnish a bit, then use a soft wire brush, but it seemed not to come
> off clean plus I had to be careful not to burn the wood.
> I do have a Dremel tool. Just a basic model. Maybe they have bits for
> this purpose?
Using propane, a flapping sander, dremel, will ruin the moldings
relief, what you are working on might take me 1-2 days, razor sharp
curved wood cutting blades, and good paint remover are what has to be
done, Ive done at least 20 doors of greater difficulty than yours.
After you strip it has to be broght to new wood or the door will not
look good. Take a photo and go see your pro furniture refinisher man,
its a job you need experiance and the correct tools for.
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Posted by dpb on May 6, 2008, 9:26 am
ransley wrote:
...
> its a job you need experiance and the correct tools for.
Mostly what OP seems to be lacking that is needed is _patience_ and
"sticktuitiveness".
It's slow, painstaking work, not a slapdash, done in 15 minutes kind of
project.
--
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Posted by ransley on May 6, 2008, 9:46 am
> ransley wrote:
>
> ...
>
> > its a job you need experiance and the correct tools for.
>
> Mostly what OP seems to be lacking that is needed is _patience_ and
> "sticktuitiveness".
>
> It's slow, painstaking work, not a slapdash, done in 15 minutes kind of
> project.
>
> --
Its a learning process, unfortuantly I never found a fast route and
there is none, he doesnt understand the time required, I would often
have 2-3 guys work a old door for 2 days to restore it. He did the
easy part, some striper and a sander on the flat pieces, its still at
least a day more to go, I bet he ruins it.
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