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sweat connections to old copper supply lines

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sweat connections to old copper supply lines Andrew 03-01-2007
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Posted by Andrew on March 1, 2007, 12:56 pm


I'm working in my old Philadelphia victorian rerouting the copper
supply lines, and I'm trying to tie into some older copper line with
new stuff. But the joints keep failing on the old copper side. The
lines are bone dry, and I've sanded them down to shiny copper so the
fittings slide on nicely, I've got it all fluxed up, but the solder
isn't taking. It looks like it's even being repelled! Any ideas why
I'm having such difficulty? All the other joints, where the copper's
all new are just fine.

Anrew


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Posted by Speedy Jim on March 1, 2007, 1:04 pm


Andrew wrote:
> I'm working in my old Philadelphia victorian rerouting the copper
> supply lines, and I'm trying to tie into some older copper line with
> new stuff. But the joints keep failing on the old copper side. The
> lines are bone dry, and I've sanded them down to shiny copper so the
> fittings slide on nicely, I've got it all fluxed up, but the solder
> isn't taking. It looks like it's even being repelled! Any ideas why
> I'm having such difficulty? All the other joints, where the copper's
> all new are just fine.
>
> Anrew
>

Try a small tub of Oatey No. 95 Flux.

See if you can get solder to flow onto the end of
the old pipe (no fitting).

Posted by Charles Schuler on March 1, 2007, 5:29 pm



>I would try tinning the pipe with solder, to ensure that you get it coated
>before adding the fitting. While it is hot wipe excess solder with a cloth
>rag to reduce the amount of solder build-up. Reflux. Add fitting, then
>re-solder.

Yes. That's usually the best approach because you can inspect after wiping
and see if the coating is even.



Posted by Andrew on March 2, 2007, 1:20 pm


wrote:
>
>
> >I would try tinning the pipe with solder, to ensure that you get it coated
> >before adding the fitting. While it is hot wipe excess solder with a cloth
> >rag to reduce the amount of solder build-up. Reflux. Add fitting, then
> >re-solder.
>
> Yes. That's usually the best approach because you can inspect after wiping
> and see if the coating is even.


Excellent! The tinning procedure worked, and the sweat connections
are holding so far. It's nice to be able to shower again!
I have a couple of other questions I'll launch in new threads I guess.


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