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Posted by MRnice on March 14, 2006, 7:55 pm
If you can take an inch of haze off by scraping it with your fingernail
then it is an easy fix. First, wet a clean sponge and pass it over the
tile, rinsing often to keep the sponge free of grout. Make about 2-3
passes across the tiles until the haze almost looks gone when wet.
When the tiles dry (less than an hour), you will see a light haze that
you can then use a light grade steel wool pad to buff across the tile
to remove the remaining haze. If the haze is really light, you can
buff it off with a towel instead of the steel wool (almost like
removing wax from a car).
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Posted by Norminn on March 15, 2006, 2:04 am
MRnice wrote:
> If you can take an inch of haze off by scraping it with your fingernail
> then it is an easy fix. First, wet a clean sponge and pass it over the
> tile, rinsing often to keep the sponge free of grout. Make about 2-3
> passes across the tiles until the haze almost looks gone when wet.
> When the tiles dry (less than an hour), you will see a light haze that
> you can then use a light grade steel wool pad to buff across the tile
> to remove the remaining haze. If the haze is really light, you can
> buff it off with a towel instead of the steel wool (almost like
> removing wax from a car).
>
I would not use steel wool - it shreds and crumbles, and the user is
very likely to end up with tiny rust spots all over his tile and grout.
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Posted by Keith Williams on March 15, 2006, 12:08 pm
norminn@earthlink.net says...
> MRnice wrote:
> > If you can take an inch of haze off by scraping it with your fingernail
> > then it is an easy fix. First, wet a clean sponge and pass it over the
> > tile, rinsing often to keep the sponge free of grout. Make about 2-3
> > passes across the tiles until the haze almost looks gone when wet.
> > When the tiles dry (less than an hour), you will see a light haze that
> > you can then use a light grade steel wool pad to buff across the tile
> > to remove the remaining haze. If the haze is really light, you can
> > buff it off with a towel instead of the steel wool (almost like
> > removing wax from a car).
> >
> I would not use steel wool - it shreds and crumbles, and the user is
> very likely to end up with tiny rust spots all over his tile and grout.
The green kitchen "Scotch-Brite" pads work very well for this.
They'll take off a small amount of grout stuck to glazed tile too.
--
Keith
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Posted by thetiler on March 15, 2006, 12:57 am
Your installer is an idiot. Tell him to clean the haze off
himself. It's not your job. An installer should leave the
new floor spotless- if he claims to be an expert.
If your plumber tiled it on the weekend-----that's another
matter...
But since he's an idiot and you'll probably have to do
it yourself anyway, just mop the floor for a good 10 minutes
with a solution of about 10% vinegar, slopping it around
liberally, then rinsing and mopping it up. It won't hurt
the grout. If that doesn't do it, a tile dealer will sell
sulfamic acid, which is a "safer" acid than muratic.
It comes in crystals (like sugar) which you dissolve
in water per instructions on the can. Slop it around as
I described above and rinse it well. That will remove
any grout haze.
Time is your enemy now as grout haze (usually a polymer
film) gets harder day by day so act soon.
Since you said some of it came off with water and
a towel, I'll bet it comes off with the vinegar rinse.
thetiler
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> then it is an easy fix. First, wet a clean sponge and pass it over the
> tile, rinsing often to keep the sponge free of grout. Make about 2-3
> passes across the tiles until the haze almost looks gone when wet.
> When the tiles dry (less than an hour), you will see a light haze that
> you can then use a light grade steel wool pad to buff across the tile
> to remove the remaining haze. If the haze is really light, you can
> buff it off with a towel instead of the steel wool (almost like
> removing wax from a car).
>