|
Posted by J on April 21, 2008, 9:55 am
Thanks for a nice detailed response. I believe the problem you described is
the same thing I'm experiencing. Yes, by removing the refill tube from the
overflow tube, the flapper will reseal. Also, if I restrict the flow of
water at the wall by partially closing the stop valve, the flapper will
reseal. Now I need to decide how I'm going to fix it for good....
Thanks.
>J wrote:
>
>> After flushing the toilet, it tends to continue to run. When it is
>> flushed, the flapper is pulled up which allows the water to escape from
>> the tank, while at the same time the float falls which opens the valve to
>> fill the tank with water. All is well to this point.
>>
>> The problem is the flapper generally doesn't go back down to the bottom
>> in a timely fashion to plug the escape hole, and the source water begins
>> to fill the tank again.
>>
>> The source water apparently causes enough turbulence that it resists the
>> flapper from falling to the bottom. If I were to manually stop the
>> source water by lifting the float, the flapper drops to the bottom. I
>> think it would be fixed if there were some way I could adjust the float
>> to not allow the source valve to open until the flapper were much closer
>> to closing. Yet, I've adjusted the float as far as it will go and that
>> doesn't do it. I also think that if it were a slower flow of incoming
>> water, it might work.
>>
>> Could it be that someone has used the wrong replacement parts? Someone
>> has added a 'weight' to the top of the flapper, but that doesn't really
>> help, and I have an objection to relying on pure Kentucky windage to fix
>> things.
>>
>> Any help appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> I had a similar problem after I replaced the old float arm valve in one of
> our home toilets with a Fluidmaster valve.
>
> There was such a strong flow of water coming through the bowl refill tube
> that it was flying down the overfill pipe, splashing off the horizontal
> surface below and bouncing up against the bottom of the flapper valve
> enough to keep it from closing.
>
> I diagnosed the problem for what it was and "proved it" by placing a small
> C-clamp on on the refill tube and squeezing it down to reduce the flow
> through it. That got the flapper working normally.
>
> I solved the problem "fer real" by sliding a few lengths of 1/16" wire
> solder inside the refill tube to create enough restriction to slow down
> the flow.
>
> When I was done (and got through patting myself on the back.) I pinged
> Fluidmaster with an email describing what I'd encountered and received an
> almosr immediate reply which said they knew about that problem and asking
> for my postal address so they could send me a free "fix". I did that and
> shortly received a little plastic restrictor with barbed fittings on each
> side and instructions telling me to to cut the refill tube and stick it
> in.
>
> I never got a round tuit and the pieces of wire solder are still inside
> the refill tube working just fine.
>
> So, why not try pulling the refill tube out of the overflow tube
> temporarily and see if that lets the flapper drop normally.
>
> If it does, you can figure out the rest....
>
> Live and learn,
>
> Jeff
>
> --
> Jeffry Wisnia
> (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
>
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap