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toilet tank shut off valve question 007 06-27-2006
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Posted by 007 on June 27, 2006, 5:26 pm


i attempted to replace a valve stem on
the shut off valve. removing it was easy.
unfortunately couldn't find right size
replacement.

so Plan B, replace entire valve and use
new flex tubing to toilet tank.

simple enough.

attempted to undo the nut holding the
valve to the pipe coming out of wall.

it was REALLY torqued down (compression
fitting?) - realized a split second too
late i should be using another wrench to
keep the valve body from rotating.

the valve body ended up being rotated
about a 1/4 turn.

what are the odds i damaged the pipe ??

or did i just rotate the entire valve around
a flanged edge of a pipe and the pipe could
not have twisted ?

i'm calling in a "pro" at this point.








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Posted by Bob on June 27, 2006, 5:53 pm

007 wrote:
> i attempted to replace a valve stem on
> the shut off valve. removing it was easy.
> unfortunately couldn't find right size
> replacement.
>
> so Plan B, replace entire valve and use
> new flex tubing to toilet tank.
>
> simple enough.
>
> attempted to undo the nut holding the
> valve to the pipe coming out of wall.
>
> it was REALLY torqued down (compression
> fitting?) - realized a split second too
> late i should be using another wrench to
> keep the valve body from rotating.
>
> the valve body ended up being rotated
> about a 1/4 turn.
>
> what are the odds i damaged the pipe ??
>
> or did i just rotate the entire valve around
> a flanged edge of a pipe and the pipe could
> not have twisted ?
>
> i'm calling in a "pro" at this point.

A good likelyhood the valve is soldered to copper pipe and you twisted
the pipe. But then you may have broke loose the solder joint also. A
good decision to call in the pro.


Posted by 007 on June 27, 2006, 6:43 pm

>
> 007 wrote:
> > i attempted to replace a valve stem on
> > the shut off valve. removing it was easy.
> > unfortunately couldn't find right size
> > replacement.
> >
> > so Plan B, replace entire valve and use
> > new flex tubing to toilet tank.
> >
> > simple enough.
> >
> > attempted to undo the nut holding the
> > valve to the pipe coming out of wall.
> >
> > it was REALLY torqued down (compression
> > fitting?) - realized a split second too
> > late i should be using another wrench to
> > keep the valve body from rotating.
> >
> > the valve body ended up being rotated
> > about a 1/4 turn.
> >
> > what are the odds i damaged the pipe ??
> >
> > or did i just rotate the entire valve around
> > a flanged edge of a pipe and the pipe could
> > not have twisted ?
> >
> > i'm calling in a "pro" at this point.
>
> A good likelyhood the valve is soldered to copper pipe and you twisted
> the pipe. But then you may have broke loose the solder joint also. A
> good decision to call in the pro.


uhmmm, the valve body is sort of an upside down " T ", one end
going into the wall (with a nut on it), the middle part with a
tube going to the toilet tank, the other end had a stem coming
out of it where a handle was attached.

so i turned the nut that was closest to the wall, and it
rotated the entire valve body - before i realized - oops!
must use another wrench to keep valve body from twisting.

unless you mean there's a threaded pipe (for the nut to
attach to), that was soldered in to the main supply ?

how are they typically installed ??









Posted by m Ransley on June 27, 2006, 6:06 pm
Just turn it back its probably fine and not worth the money for a
plumber.


Posted by mm on June 28, 2006, 1:00 am
At 5200 Woodlawn, in Chicago, a building I think was from the 40's, we
had separate hot and cold faucets in the bathroom sink. Fine but the
water was burning hot. I bought a mixer but it wouldn't stay on since
the two faucets toed in. So I straightened out the cold water a bit
with my hands, less than a quarter turn. Everything was fine for days
or iirc weeks, and then it started leaking. Copper pipe I think.

Had to be repaired by a plumber.

Story time:
Had to fix it that night so it didn't flood the floor. Put a bucket
under it but the bucket filled up. Emptied the bucket into the
toilet, and so I could empty it easier the next time, I put the empty
bucket on a wood box or something to raise it a bit above the toilet.
Took a foot or two piece of hose left over from chem lab to make a
siphon. Wasn't long enough so I stuck a thick soda straw into one end
and routed that underneath the toilet seat.

The goal was to use this every time I had to empty the water, so that
I could let the water get higher in the bucket, and heavier.

But the siphon slowed down as the water levels were more nearly equal,
and sped up when the water in the bucket got higher. It reached
equilibrium, and though we called the landlord the next day, we didn't
have to call it a crisis. The plumber didn't come for a week, and the
siphon worked the entire time with no need to turn off the water, no
maintenance, and no spillage.

Oh yeah, I draped a rag or wash cloth from the dripping pipe to the
water in the bucket, so we wouldn't have to listen to the water
dripping. The whole setup took 10 or 15 minutes, everything worked on
the first try better than I ever imagined was possible.


>
>
>i attempted to replace a valve stem on
>the shut off valve. removing it was easy.
>unfortunately couldn't find right size
>replacement.
>
>so Plan B, replace entire valve and use
>new flex tubing to toilet tank.
>
>simple enough.
>
>attempted to undo the nut holding the
>valve to the pipe coming out of wall.
>
>it was REALLY torqued down (compression
>fitting?) - realized a split second too
>late i should be using another wrench to
>keep the valve body from rotating.
>
>the valve body ended up being rotated
>about a 1/4 turn.
>
>what are the odds i damaged the pipe ??
>
>or did i just rotate the entire valve around
>a flanged edge of a pipe and the pipe could
>not have twisted ?
>
>i'm calling in a "pro" at this point.
>
>
>
>
>
>


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