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Posted by on March 24, 2007, 2:59 pm
Here's what happened when I replaced the tpr valve (factory installed)
on my 3-yr old Richmond 40 gallon gas water heater. Using a large
crescent wrench on the flats, the brass deformed and the downspout
broke off. Then using a pipe wrench on the remaining body, as close
to the heater as I could get, the wrench merely gouged out more
brass. Then I ground two flats for the wrench to grip better, so this
time the entire body broke off, leaving a stud projecting from the
heater. I then had clearance to the inside of the fitting, so I used
a hacksaw blade down the middle of the opening, two slits 1/8" apart
down to the threads, and punched out the strip (dropped in, oh well).
Now It was easy to unscrew the stud with a needlenose.
My question: how would a pro have replaced this valve?
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Posted by Grandpa on March 24, 2007, 3:42 pm
rufovillosum@yahoo.com wrote:
> Here's what happened when I replaced the tpr valve (factory installed)
> on my 3-yr old Richmond 40 gallon gas water heater. Using a large
> crescent wrench on the flats, the brass deformed and the downspout
> broke off. Then using a pipe wrench on the remaining body, as close
> to the heater as I could get, the wrench merely gouged out more
> brass. Then I ground two flats for the wrench to grip better, so this
> time the entire body broke off, leaving a stud projecting from the
> heater. I then had clearance to the inside of the fitting, so I used
> a hacksaw blade down the middle of the opening, two slits 1/8" apart
> down to the threads, and punched out the strip (dropped in, oh well).
> Now It was easy to unscrew the stud with a needlenose.
>
> My question: how would a pro have replaced this valve?
>
Same way, according to my plumber friend. BTW, his first comment to
me was, "I hate it when that happens."
--
Grandpa
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Posted by Srgnt Billko on March 24, 2007, 3:55 pm
> Here's what happened when I replaced the tpr valve (factory installed)
> on my 3-yr old Richmond 40 gallon gas water heater. Using a large
> crescent wrench on the flats, the brass deformed and the downspout
> broke off. Then using a pipe wrench on the remaining body, as close
> to the heater as I could get, the wrench merely gouged out more
> brass. Then I ground two flats for the wrench to grip better, so this
> time the entire body broke off, leaving a stud projecting from the
> heater. I then had clearance to the inside of the fitting, so I used
> a hacksaw blade down the middle of the opening, two slits 1/8" apart
> down to the threads, and punched out the strip (dropped in, oh well).
> Now It was easy to unscrew the stud with a needlenose.
>
> My question: how would a pro have replaced this valve?
>
Crescent wrenches, while very handy, are not the best tool in the world for
something that requires lots of pressure. They always have some give to
them. I really try to avoid them whenever I can. Sometimes on a tight
object it helps to put tightening pressure on and the try again to loosen
it. Or, if room permits, heat.
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Posted by mm on March 24, 2007, 4:56 pm
wrote:
>
>> Here's what happened when I replaced the tpr valve (factory installed)
>> on my 3-yr old Richmond 40 gallon gas water heater. Using a large
>> crescent wrench on the flats, the brass deformed and the downspout
>> broke off. Then using a pipe wrench on the remaining body, as close
>> to the heater as I could get, the wrench merely gouged out more
>> brass. Then I ground two flats for the wrench to grip better, so this
>> time the entire body broke off, leaving a stud projecting from the
>> heater. I then had clearance to the inside of the fitting, so I used
>> a hacksaw blade down the middle of the opening, two slits 1/8" apart
>> down to the threads, and punched out the strip (dropped in, oh well).
>> Now It was easy to unscrew the stud with a needlenose.
>>
>> My question: how would a pro have replaced this valve?
>>
>
>Crescent wrenches, while very handy, are not the best tool in the world for
>something that requires lots of pressure. They always have some give to
>them. I really try to avoid them whenever I can.
Do any of the locking crescent wrenches work much better? I figure if
I see one at a yard sale I'll buy it, but if omsone said a particular
style really worked, maybe I'd buy it now.
I use end and box wrenches as much as possible, English and metric, to
get the right size, and I use vice grips a lot, but they don't even
pretend to be shaped like the bolt.
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Posted by on March 24, 2007, 5:17 pm
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> Here's what happened when I replaced the tpr valve (factory installed)
> >> on my 3-yr old Richmond 40 gallon gas water heater. Using a large
> >> crescent wrench on the flats, the brass deformed and the downspout
> >> broke off. Then using a pipe wrench on the remaining body, as close
> >> to the heater as I could get, the wrench merely gouged out more
> >> brass. Then I ground two flats for the wrench to grip better, so this
> >> time the entire body broke off, leaving a stud projecting from the
> >> heater. I then had clearance to the inside of the fitting, so I used
> >> a hacksaw blade down the middle of the opening, two slits 1/8" apart
> >> down to the threads, and punched out the strip (dropped in, oh well).
> >> Now It was easy to unscrew the stud with a needlenose.
>
> >> My question: how would a pro have replaced this valve?
>
> >Crescent wrenches, while very handy, are not the best tool in the world for
> >something that requires lots of pressure. They always have some give to
> >them. I really try to avoid them whenever I can.
>
> Do any of the locking crescent wrenches work much better? I figure if
> I see one at a yard sale I'll buy it, but if omsone said a particular
> style really worked, maybe I'd buy it now.
>
> I use end and box wrenches as much as possible, English and metric, to
> get the right size, and I use vice grips a lot, but they don't even
> pretend to be shaped like the bolt.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'm having a tough time figuring out how a pipe wrench would slip so
it couldn't be used on a TPR valve. The TPR valves are kind of
oblong, even a bit rectangular and a pipe wrench should stay on it
easier than on just a piece of smooth pipe, which they are made for.
Still, if it finally broke off instead of coming out, not sure there's
much you could have done differently.
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