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Posted by DaveM on July 4, 2006, 5:18 pm
>I recently installed three ceiling fans in a warehouse space. Of the
> three units, one of them failed shortly after installation (the
> installer didn't know what he was doing and blew it up), and someone
> else replaced the wall controller with another unit. The replacement
> wall controller had a 4 position slider (Off / Low / Med / Hi* ) like
> the original, but I don't think it's exactly the same internally
> because in the "Off" position, the fan is still moving at a very slow
> rate (2-4 cycles per minute). Plus the slider goes the wrong way, but
> that's just cosmetic.
>
> The fans have a single hot wire going to them (and a neutral coming
> back), so there's no fancy tach/feedback stuff going on here, just
> supply power manipulation.
>
> I'd like to replace the failed controller with the exact same model by
> the same mfg (Rhine Electronic, Model UC9020, apparently Taiwanese) but
> their website is nonfunctional and I can't even figure out who their
> distributor in the US might be. So now I'm looking into at least
> getting a controller that works the same.
>
> I took the failed controller apart and it is built around two large
> capacitors, labeled 8.0 uF and 12.0 uF (actually they're rated "uFJ",
> whatever that means). There are a few resistors, the 4 position slider
> switch and then that's it. I assume that this serves to cut the AC
> waveform or drop the voltage somehow.
>
> If I go buy a replacement fan controller, what should I be looking for?
> Are there different types? (e.g. voltage limiting? current limiting?)
> All the failed controller label says is the current rating (1.5A).
> Obviously it is possible to get the wrong kind, because that's what
> I've got now.
>
Obviously, the original fan controller switched the capacitors around to change
speed. Typical for a split phase motor. And I don't think you can control a
split phase motor's speed with just two wires... there has to be a hot and
neutral, but also a third wire that connects to the appropriate capacitor.
Many fans have the capacitor(s) inside the motor housing (designed to work from
a pull switch hanging from the motor). Possibly is your fan of that
construction? If so, a controller having the capacitors won't work.
I'd be very suspicious of the wiring to the fan. That is probably why the fan
doesn't run with the original controller.
The replacement controller that you have is probably a "dimmer" type controller,
and will not work with your fan.
In my opinion, your first move would be to make sure that the wiring to the fan
is correct. Unless the improper installation ruined the switch, it's unlikely
that the capacitors are damaged. Most likely thing is that the improper
installation ruined the fan motor by burning out the split phase winding.
Prepare to buy a new fan or replacement motor.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)
Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.
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