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Posted by on December 6, 2006, 11:49 pm
The Citristrip stuff is crap that doesn't do much. I'm glad I bought
the smallest container of it. I've had much better results with all
the ones that contain harsh chemicals. The only exception that have
found so far is Peel Away. It takes forever, but it does work and it
doesn't stink up the place.
If you are just looking to remove paint from wood, use a heat gun
instead. It works much better.
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Posted by David Nebenzahl on December 7, 2006, 1:07 am
scott21230@gmail.com spake thus:
> The Citristrip stuff is crap that doesn't do much. I'm glad I bought
> the smallest container of it. I've had much better results with all
> the ones that contain harsh chemicals.
It's true that the orange stuff takes longer than the harsh-chemical
stuff, but given enough time, it does work. That's one tradeoff I'm
quite willing to make.
--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.
- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)
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Posted by David Nebenzahl on December 7, 2006, 1:11 am
PV spake thus:
>
>>I'm doing some intro woodworking projects and need a good chemical
>>stripper that easy to clean up, will not interfere with sanding, and low
>>toxity level.
>
> Check out these folks,
>
> http://www.franmar.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=21
>
> We use these products for screen printing and they are great, no fumes no
> smell, use it barehanded.
Here's a better link (though longer):
http://www.franmar.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=114&osCsid=98d074abfd47b77eae45b863af252bae
Soy, gel, huh? Never heard of it. I'll have to try it sometime. Is this
stuff available anywhere locally (local being S.F. Bay Area)?
--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.
- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)
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Posted by Norminn on December 7, 2006, 6:15 am
g wrote:
> I'm doing some intro woodworking projects and need a good chemical
> stripper that easy to clean up, will not interfere with sanding, and low
> toxity level.
>
>
> thanks
Methylene chloride is best, but toxic. If you work in well-ventillated
garage and dispose of the waste properly, it is ideal. It would make
pretty quick work of a flat, thin finish. I use steel wool and mineral
spirits for clean-up and sanding is usually not needed. I use sandwich
bags for "gloves" to handle the stuff because it eats up rubber gloves
pretty quick. It stings rather badly on skin, but for some reason
doesn't leave any marks or irritation. It also may work best for wood
with intricate carving because you can work it in with an old toothbrush
or similar to get varnish out of fine spaces. Not what you asked for,
but only method I've used.
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Posted by Baron on December 10, 2006, 6:12 pm
> I'm doing some intro woodworking projects and need a good chemical
> stripper that easy to clean up, will not interfere with sanding, and low
> toxity level.
>
>
> thanks
There are several types of furniture strippers not counting the
specialized ones for paint.
I will assume that by "good" you mean one that works in a reasonable
amount of time and does a complete job. The only ones that are really
"good" are those that contain Methylene Chloride (MC). ATM strippers
(Acetone, Toluene, Methanol) can remove some furniture coatings like simple
lacquer and shellac but won't do much for varnish or polyurethane. As you
can imagine, ATM strippers are quite flammable. MC strippers are typically
not flammable. MC strippers work quite fast. You can usually see them
bubbling up the finish in about ten minutes. ATM strippers work more slowly
since they are trying to dissolve the finish. All other strippers work
slowly so probably don't fit your definition of good.
As for cleanup, it's all in how you do it. After you have given it the
once over with 4/0 steel wool or a ScotchBrite pad soaked in stripper and
then removed the excess with a plastic blade / scrapper, try wiping down
the piece with a clean rag to remove most of the stripper / finish. Then,
go over it with 1/1/2 (v/v/v) alcohol/acetone/toluene. This will remove any
remaining stripper, wax, and finish. The beauty of the mixture is that it
does not allow the finish to redeposit. The cleaning takes no more than
five minutes.
There are no strippers that interfere with sanding once they have been
thoroughly removed and the wash is allowed to evaporate.
As for low toxicity, the only stripper that is as close to nontoxic as
you can get is Safest Stripper by 3M. The active ingredients are dibasic
esters (DBEs). That stripper is extremely slow and is not particularly
thorough. Just work in a well ventilated environment and you will be fine.
The wax in all the paste strippers forms a coating over the stripper that
minimizes evaporation and therefore, fumes.
Good Luck.
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