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very dilute varnish or use roller?

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very dilute varnish or use roller? johngood_____ 02-16-2008
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Posted by Paul Oman on February 17, 2008, 10:27 am
Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:
> wrote:
>> Thank the air quality/VOC folks for the near demise of old fashion
>> oil based varnishes - (solvent level too high in them!)
>
> There are still plenty of them out there. The new low VOC versions
> can often be thinned by the end user to perform just like the old
> version.


--------- could be, but if you add solvent you probably are then
exceeding the VOC limits and are technically breaking the law.

Do you have a name or brand of the lower solvent based (not water
based) varnish? I haven't found any.

Some 'old varnish' can still get by thanks to the quart unit
exemption in place in most places (but not in California any more).

Same sort of issue with high solvent 2 part polys (LPU coatings).

You can legally apply them to your car, but not to your grill,
mailbox, etc.


Even most waterbased coatings have some VOCs - almost impossible
to sell a floor coating in Southern California!

Paul (from Progressive epoxy polymers)

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Posted by Fred the Red Shirt on February 17, 2008, 1:16 pm
> Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:
>
> ...
>
> --------- could be, but if you add solvent you probably are then
> exceeding the VOC limits and are technically breaking the law.
>
> Do you have a name or brand of the lower solvent based (not water
> based) varnish? I haven't found any.
>
> Some 'old varnish' can still get by thanks to the quart unit
> exemption in place in most places (but not in California any more).
>
> Same sort of issue with high solvent 2 part polys (LPU coatings).
>
> You can legally apply them to your car, but not to your grill,
> mailbox, etc.
>
> Even most waterbased coatings have some VOCs - almost impossible
> to sell a floor coating in Southern California!
>
> Paul (from Progressive epoxy polymers)


I have to wonder as to the total quantity of organic
vapors emitted by all of the asphalt over it's lifetime
in a place like Southern California, vs paints, lacquers
and varnishes over the same period of time.

--

FF

Posted by Father Haskell on February 17, 2008, 1:02 am
> I have a table top I wish to varnish over and have bought some Ronseal
> Diamond Hard Clear Satin (water based) Varnish.
>
> I would like to get it on as *smoothly* as possible and not being too
> brilliant wielding a paint brush wonder if, since it is a water based paint,
> i could *dilute* it right down with boiled water and then more or less
> 'smear' it on using a rag, then turn up the central heating and hope that it
> would all dry very smooth?
>
> Another thought I had was to use a small roller. Our local store sells two
> types of rollar surface, a sponge for gloss paint and a hairy one for
> emulsion. If using a roller was a possibilty to get a very smooth surface,
> which type of roller surface should I buy please?
>
> Thanks for any advice with this.

Waterborne is already water thin.

Try a foam brush, light touch, tip off, and move on. Don't keep
brushing
over the same wet area like you can with an oil based varnish. That
causes
bubbles. I'd expect worse with a roller.

Posted by johngood_____ on February 17, 2008, 10:01 am

>> I have a table top I wish to varnish over and have bought some Ronseal
>> Diamond Hard Clear Satin (water based) Varnish.
>>
>> I would like to get it on as *smoothly* as possible and not being too
>> brilliant wielding a paint brush wonder if, since it is a water based
>> paint,
>> i could *dilute* it right down with boiled water and then more or less
>> 'smear' it on using a rag, then turn up the central heating and hope that
>> it
>> would all dry very smooth?
>>
>> Another thought I had was to use a small roller. Our local store sells
>> two
>> types of rollar surface, a sponge for gloss paint and a hairy one for
>> emulsion. If using a roller was a possibilty to get a very smooth
>> surface,
>> which type of roller surface should I buy please?
>>
>> Thanks for any advice with this.

This has proved a real education for me. The particular application is to a
well made japanese low table with a 'formica' top, which sounds awful, but
in fact has a very realistic wood pattern and unfortunately is built into
the table top in such a way as to make its removal likely to make the table
look really awful on its curved edges. The top is worn, not so much that
it has gone through the patterned layer, but is well scuffed and scratched
and these scuff marks disappear under a coat of the water based varnish.
thanks to all.



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