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vinyl siding primer, latex or oil? rg 08-22-2008
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Posted by rg on August 22, 2008, 10:20 am


Benjamin Moore dealer recomended their 100% acrylic latex primer (fresh
start). They said it was a bonding primer and did not require bonding
additive (emulsabond). I tested it on a small area, brushing it out real
thin and within hours in direct sunlight I could not scratch it off with
with my fingernail. So I went ahead and did a small area (front and sides
of a dormer) but two days later I was able to scratch it off fairly easily,
I was dissappointed. The only difference was that I put it on heavier.
Note: not too heavy, I know how to paint and prime, a nice even coat. I
called BM and they said that I should expect to be able to scratch any latex
coating for at least a weak, maybe up to four weeks. But it was ok to go
ahead and paint. So I put a base coat over the primer and its' been about a
week and I can still scratch it easily. This has not been my experiance over
the years. So I tested an area with BM oil primer and it seems to be
sticking like glue. The oil primer was tested strait and thinned some and
alothough the the thinned drys faster they seem to stick equally well.

Am I making too much of this and just trust BM and go ahead with the latex
primer, maybe thinning with water some?

Should I just bite the bullet and do it in oil?

What do you guys think?



BM recommends against thinning any of their products.

Conditions have been good weather sunny and dry.

I know the siding is clean, I did it myself with TSP and a sponge, rag, and
brush by hand

I tested and area after using a chemical de-glosser (will-bond) and the
results were no better

Paint is BM MooreGuard



Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by RicodJour on August 22, 2008, 10:37 am


> Benjamin Moore dealer recomended their 100% acrylic latex primer (fresh
> start). They said it was a bonding primer and did not require bonding
> additive (emulsabond). =A0I tested it on a small area, brushing it out re=
al
> thin and within hours in direct sunlight I could not scratch it off with
> with my fingernail. =A0So I went ahead and did a small area (front and si=
des
> of a dormer) but two days later I was able to scratch it off fairly easil=
y,
> I was dissappointed. =A0The only difference was that I put it on heavier.
> Note: not too heavy, I know how to paint and prime, a nice even coat. I
> called BM and they said that I should expect to be able to scratch any la=
tex
> coating for at least a weak, maybe up to four weeks. But it was ok to go
> ahead and paint. So I put a base coat over the primer and its' been about=
a
> week and I can still scratch it easily. This has not been my experiance o=
ver
> the years. So I tested an area with BM oil primer and it seems to be
> sticking like glue. =A0The oil primer was tested strait and thinned some =
and
> alothough the the thinned drys faster they seem to stick equally well.
>
> Am I making too much of this and just trust BM and go ahead with the late=
x
> primer, maybe thinning with water some?
>
> Should I just bite the bullet and do it in oil?
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> BM recommends against thinning any of their products.
>
> Conditions have been good weather sunny and dry.
>
> I know the siding is clean, =A0I did it myself with TSP and a sponge, rag=
, and
> brush by hand
>
> I tested and area after using a chemical de-glosser (will-bond) and the
> results were no better
>
> Paint is BM MooreGuard

You don't need primer on vinyl siding at all. Just clean the vinyl
well (plenty of rinsing), put Emulsabond in the first coat and you're
good to go. I assume you're painting with a lighter color paint -
vinyl siding painted a dark color can have problems with warping and
expansion in direct sun. I would not use oil paint because it yellows
more than latex and does not have the elastic properties of latex -
particularly important with vinyl siding.

R

Posted by RicodJour on August 22, 2008, 10:55 am


>
> You don't need primer on vinyl siding at all. =A0Just clean the vinyl
> well (plenty of rinsing), put Emulsabond in the first coat and you're
> good to go. =A0I assume you're painting with a lighter color paint -
> vinyl siding painted a dark color can have problems with warping and
> expansion in direct sun. =A0I would not use oil paint because it yellows
> more than latex and does not have the elastic properties of latex -
> particularly important with vinyl siding.

This link might interest you:
http://www.consumersearch.com/www/house_and_home/exterior-paint/

Paint is one of those things where the more you pay the better product
you get. Visit the Sherwin Williams web site and check out some of
their latex/urethane paints. Good stuff.

R

Posted by h on August 22, 2008, 10:37 am



> Benjamin Moore dealer recomended their 100% acrylic latex primer (fresh
> start). They said it was a bonding primer and did not require bonding
> additive (emulsabond). I tested it on a small area, brushing it out real
> thin and within hours in direct sunlight I could not scratch it off with
> with my fingernail. So I went ahead and did a small area (front and sides
> of a dormer) but two days later I was able to scratch it off fairly
> easily,
> I was dissappointed. The only difference was that I put it on heavier.
> Note: not too heavy, I know how to paint and prime, a nice even coat. I
> called BM and they said that I should expect to be able to scratch any
> latex
> coating for at least a weak, maybe up to four weeks. But it was ok to go
> ahead and paint. So I put a base coat over the primer and its' been about
> a
> week and I can still scratch it easily. This has not been my experiance
> over
> the years. So I tested an area with BM oil primer and it seems to be
> sticking like glue. The oil primer was tested strait and thinned some and
> alothough the the thinned drys faster they seem to stick equally well.
>
> Am I making too much of this and just trust BM and go ahead with the latex
> primer, maybe thinning with water some?
>
> Should I just bite the bullet and do it in oil?
>
> What do you guys think?
>
>
>
> BM recommends against thinning any of their products.
>
> Conditions have been good weather sunny and dry.
>
> I know the siding is clean, I did it myself with TSP and a sponge, rag,
> and
> brush by hand
>
> I tested and area after using a chemical de-glosser (will-bond) and the
> results were no better
>
> Paint is BM MooreGuard
>
>

Always use oil-based primer. Since that is no longer available (at least
around here), switch to solid coat stain. That's what I did when oil-based
paints were banned. No peeling, no problems.



Posted by h on August 22, 2008, 11:05 am



>
>> Benjamin Moore dealer recomended their 100% acrylic latex primer (fresh
>> start). They said it was a bonding primer and did not require bonding
>> additive (emulsabond). I tested it on a small area, brushing it out real
>> thin and within hours in direct sunlight I could not scratch it off with
>> with my fingernail. So I went ahead and did a small area (front and
>> sides
>> of a dormer) but two days later I was able to scratch it off fairly
>> easily,
>> I was dissappointed. The only difference was that I put it on heavier.
>> Note: not too heavy, I know how to paint and prime, a nice even coat. I
>> called BM and they said that I should expect to be able to scratch any
>> latex
>> coating for at least a weak, maybe up to four weeks. But it was ok to go
>> ahead and paint. So I put a base coat over the primer and its' been about
>> a
>> week and I can still scratch it easily. This has not been my experiance
>> over
>> the years. So I tested an area with BM oil primer and it seems to be
>> sticking like glue. The oil primer was tested strait and thinned some
>> and
>> alothough the the thinned drys faster they seem to stick equally well.
>>
>> Am I making too much of this and just trust BM and go ahead with the
>> latex
>> primer, maybe thinning with water some?
>>
>> Should I just bite the bullet and do it in oil?
>>
>> What do you guys think?
>>
>>
>>
>> BM recommends against thinning any of their products.
>>
>> Conditions have been good weather sunny and dry.
>>
>> I know the siding is clean, I did it myself with TSP and a sponge, rag,
>> and
>> brush by hand
>>
>> I tested and area after using a chemical de-glosser (will-bond) and the
>> results were no better
>>
>> Paint is BM MooreGuard
>>
>>
>
> Always use oil-based primer. Since that is no longer available (at least
> around here), switch to solid coat stain. That's what I did when oil-based
> paints were banned. No peeling, no problems.
>
Ignore the above. I thought you were painting wood.



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