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Posted by on February 13, 2007, 10:10 pm
> George wrote:
> > (7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)
>
> > Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
> > clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out
> > dirty. The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is,
> > how?
>
> > It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
> > with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right
> > now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
> > nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
> > insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.
>
> > Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
> > it be OK to use heat?
>
> > Thanks,
> > George
>
> Keep pouring the Liquid Wrench to it, and tapping it gently all around the
> connection. Do so periodically for a full day if you can. Let it set
> overnight, tap it some more, and try to loosen it. The tapping helps the
> oil penetrate into the rust. Careful of high heat (torch) when you've got
> oil all over it.
>
> Keep an eye on it whenever using an extender; you could twist the whole
> thing loose. If you see the whole union move, stop!
Is that the pumbers union? Or maybe the electrical workers
untion? ? Last time I checked the freeking anode is just screwed
into the top of the freeking water heater tank, without any union.
>
> If you can get wrenches onto it, one to loosen, the other to hold the base
> still, then you could put a puller or clamp on it to squeeze them together
> to loosen it. Watch out it doesn't break, though.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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