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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 16, 2007, 6:04 pm
> On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:10:39 -0600, Mike Hartigan
>
>
>
>
>
> >@bigfoot.com says...
> >> wrote:
>
> >> >The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
> >> >sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.
>
> >> >However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
> >> >wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.
>
> >> They make open-end impact wrenches?** =A0What about just using an
> >> open=3Dend wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)
>
> >> **Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?
>
> >It sounds like you might be confused. =A0There is no pipe attached to
> >the anode. =A0A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. =A0Even a 12-
> >point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.
>
> Yeah, I was confused. =A0Thanks. =A0I built a shelf over my WH, with only
> a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate,
> but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.
>
> But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I
> understand this now.-
They arent worth replacing disturbing the tank may cause a leak:(
You may have trouble getting the anode rod to clear the cieling:( even
with no shelf, and if your tank is gas watch the shelf isnt close to
the flue pipe.
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