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water heater: removing anode rod

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water heater: removing anode rod George 02-13-2007
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Posted by mm on February 15, 2007, 10:20 pm


wrote:

>
>
>mm wrote:
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
>> >sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.
>> >
>> >However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
>> >wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.
>>
>> They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
>> open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)
>>
>> **Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?
>
>What are you talking about????
>
>I've changed my anode rod quickly and easily with an impact wrench. The
>rod has a standard hex head (1 1/16 inch). Here, look at one:
>
>http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/PayPal/Standard-HexHead-Zinc-Anode.html

Thanks.

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Posted by Mike Hartigan on February 15, 2007, 10:10 pm


@bigfoot.com says...
> wrote:
>
> >
> >The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
> >sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.
> >
> >However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
> >wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.
>
> They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
> open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)
>
> **Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

It sounds like you might be confused. There is no pipe attached to
the anode. A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. Even a 12-
point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

Posted by mm on February 16, 2007, 1:01 pm


On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:10:39 -0600, Mike Hartigan

>@bigfoot.com says...
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
>> >sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.
>> >
>> >However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
>> >wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.
>>
>> They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
>> open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)
>>
>> **Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?
>
>It sounds like you might be confused. There is no pipe attached to
>the anode. A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. Even a 12-
>point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

Yeah, I was confused. Thanks. I built a shelf over my WH, with only
a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate,
but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.

But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I
understand this now.

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 16, 2007, 6:04 pm


> On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:10:39 -0600, Mike Hartigan
>
>
>
>
>
> >@bigfoot.com says...
> >> wrote:
>
> >> >The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
> >> >sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.
>
> >> >However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
> >> >wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.
>
> >> They make open-end impact wrenches?** =A0What about just using an
> >> open=3Dend wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)
>
> >> **Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?
>
> >It sounds like you might be confused. =A0There is no pipe attached to
> >the anode. =A0A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. =A0Even a 12-
> >point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.
>
> Yeah, I was confused. =A0Thanks. =A0I built a shelf over my WH, with only
> a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate,
> but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.
>
> But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I
> understand this now.-

They arent worth replacing disturbing the tank may cause a leak:(

You may have trouble getting the anode rod to clear the cieling:( even
with no shelf, and if your tank is gas watch the shelf isnt close to
the flue pipe.


Posted by George on February 14, 2007, 6:59 am



>(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)
>
>Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
>clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
>The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?
>
>...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar. And, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. They were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. Instead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. For the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

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