Home Page link

water heater: removing anode rod

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 8 of 8       << first < 1 2 3 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
water heater: removing anode rod George 02-13-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by George on February 20, 2007, 2:33 pm


wrote:

>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> > Just for completeness:
>>
>> >> > As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. %xt time, I'll get
>> >> > an impact wrench. 0ut a new (aluminum) rod in. &lushed the tank
>> >> > several times, including 2x with vinegar. .e thing I found is that it
>> >> > flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.
>>
>> >> ....
>
>Did you pour a gallon of vinegar in the heater input line? Was there
>heater full of water at the time? or empty?

Oh, yeah. Tank was empty. I poured a gal of white vinegar into the
anode rod hole (I hadn't put the new rod in), and let it sit overnight.
No water added. That's what the vendor's web site said to do.

When I let that drain, it came a little dirty ('rusty'), so I flushed
with water - as in, run about 5 gal of water into the tank, then take
the draincock off and let it gush out into a bucket. This brought out
'some' (like, a cup or two) of white lumpy stuff. I'm guessing that the
vinegar is supposed to dissolve that.

So, I stuck a wooden dowel down the anode rod hole, and kind of stirred
up the bottom. It felt like it might be plowing through some sort of
sediment. I flushed that with water a few more times, and got out more
lumpy white stuff. The water was a little cloudy, but not 'rusty'.

Then, I did another vinegar flush, as above. After I flushed that with
water, it ran clean.


>Has the rust gone away?

Yes - to my eye, the water is running clean. And, when I let it sit,
nothing settles out of it.

G

PexSupply PEX Tools 468x60
Posted by George on February 19, 2007, 10:47 pm



>
>> Just for completeness:
>>
>> As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. Next time, I'll get
>> an impact wrench. I put a new (aluminum) rod in. I flushed the tank
>> several times, including 2x with vinegar. One thing I found is that it
>> flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.
>
>No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
>still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

Yeah, I did that. The impact wrench is for the next water heater,
whenever that might be.

G

Page 8 of 8       << first < 1 2 3
Similar ThreadsPosted
water heater anode rod December 19, 2005, 12:20 pm
Stuck water heater sacrificial anode December 7, 2007, 12:33 pm
A. O. Smith water heater anode rod and warranty question September 16, 2006, 9:23 am
Draining (hot) water heater and checking sacrificial anode October 18, 2007, 7:23 pm
Anode ideas for spa copper heater June 19, 2007, 10:18 pm
I just learned water heaters have an "anode" and its important June 8, 2007, 11:43 am
Removing an electric baseboard heater March 27, 2008, 8:44 pm
tankless water heater vs. small water heater. October 14, 2006, 10:36 pm
hot water heater leak and tankless water heater? October 28, 2006, 6:42 pm
Hot water heater is really a luke warm heater May 15, 2007, 1:57 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap