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what saw blade do i need?

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what saw blade do i need? steve 07-27-2006
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Posted by steve on July 27, 2006, 10:57 pm
Hello all,
I am using a table saw to cut some laminate flooring to do my basement
stairway. I was wondering if there is a specific type of saw blade tooth
size i should use. Any suggestions?
regards,
Steve



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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on July 27, 2006, 11:37 pm

> Hello all,
> I am using a table saw to cut some laminate flooring to do my basement
> stairway. I was wondering if there is a specific type of saw blade tooth
> size i should use. Any suggestions?
> regards,
> Steve

Must be carbide tipped. I'd get an 80 tooth blade normally used for cross
cutting. It will work for the few rips you must do also. Plan to have the
blade sharpened after the job is done. Laminate is very tough on saws.



Posted by on July 28, 2006, 8:26 am
hello steve my name =FDs =F6zlem
my msn adress myhero@turk.net


Posted by on July 28, 2006, 10:11 am

steve wrote:
> Hello all,
> I am using a table saw to cut some laminate flooring to do my basement
> stairway. I was wondering if there is a specific type of saw blade tooth
> size i should use. Any suggestions?
> regards,
> Steve

Assuming your main issue is clean-cutting, with no tearout ...

Size has little to do with it. Contour and quality of sharpening of
teeth are critical, in addition to having blade runout ~0, and fence
precisely parallel to the blade for rips. If you must use miter gauge,
its slot must be precisely parallel the blade, of course.

There are many good books published on table saws, with much detail on
blade design, for example Ian Kirby's and Jim Tolpin's.

A quality ATB (alternate top bevel) or ATBR (alternate top bevel with
raker) or "triple-chip" would work well for laminate, with the first
two suritable for cross and rip cuts. Probably 40-tooth for relatively
general use.

I'd use a SCMS for the cross-cuts. With quality, sharp blade. Carbide
goes without saying.

There are other tricks you can resort to, to prevent tearout. Check the
books, and articles in "Fine Woodworking" and other mags.

J


Posted by JimL on July 28, 2006, 11:19 am

I used a 'combo' blade'.

Also try flipping the wood over and see if you get a cleaner cut.
Worked for me.




On 28 Jul 2006 07:11:42 -0700, barry@sme-online.com wrote:

>
>steve wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> I am using a table saw to cut some laminate flooring to do my basement
>> stairway. I was wondering if there is a specific type of saw blade tooth
>> size i should use. Any suggestions?
>> regards,
>> Steve
>
>Assuming your main issue is clean-cutting, with no tearout ...
>
>Size has little to do with it. Contour and quality of sharpening of
>teeth are critical, in addition to having blade runout ~0, and fence
>precisely parallel to the blade for rips. If you must use miter gauge,
>its slot must be precisely parallel the blade, of course.
>
>There are many good books published on table saws, with much detail on
>blade design, for example Ian Kirby's and Jim Tolpin's.
>
>A quality ATB (alternate top bevel) or ATBR (alternate top bevel with
>raker) or "triple-chip" would work well for laminate, with the first
>two suritable for cross and rip cuts. Probably 40-tooth for relatively
>general use.
>
>I'd use a SCMS for the cross-cuts. With quality, sharp blade. Carbide
>goes without saying.
>
>There are other tricks you can resort to, to prevent tearout. Check the
>books, and articles in "Fine Woodworking" and other mags.
>
>J


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