Home Page link

wire size and 200amp service

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 4 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
wire size and 200amp service tommears 06-27-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on June 28, 2007, 2:14 pm
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:39:24 -0700, tommears@comcast.net wrote:

>
>> http://hometips.com/articles/sunset_books/complete_wiring/calculate_e...
>Thanks this has been helpful...
>
>
>EXISTING...
>3,600 sq-ft = 10,800W
>range 15,000
>dishwasher 1,500
>fridge 1,500
>disposal 600
>laundry 1,500
>dryer 5,500
>water heater 5,600
>---------------------------
>40,500W
>
>(40,500-10,000)*0.4 = 12,200 + 10,000 = 22,200 (add 2 AC = 32,200W /
>240 = 134amp
>
>NOW ADD...
>2nd refrig 1,500W
>2nd disposal 600
>2nd oven 1,500
>leave some spare capacity for eventually adding a hot tub at
>& the 8" jointer I want to get for my woodworking shop (208V @ 20A)
>
>Looks like upgrading to 200A for the new, added appliances is probably
>correct.


You can whack a big chunk of that 10,800va off of the general lighting
load. You only take the first 3000va at 100% and the rest is computed
at 35%. The "laundry" is also part of that calculation along with 3000
va for the kitchen small appliance circiuits.
Ranges are usually computed at 8000va
There is also an optional method where you take everything at name
plate value, use 100% of the first 10kva and 40% of the rest.

You can probably survive just fine on the 150a but you need a proper
load calc to be sure. In real life most houses do not consume anywhere
near the calculated load. If you do decide you really need 200a you
certainly will need the 4/0al or 2/0cu SE cable.

AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by Meat Plow on June 28, 2007, 2:36 pm
On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 14:14:27 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

> On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:39:24 -0700, tommears@comcast.net wrote:
>
>>
>>> http://hometips.com/articles/sunset_books/complete_wiring/calculate_e...
>>Thanks this has been helpful...
>>
>>
>>EXISTING...
>>3,600 sq-ft = 10,800W
>>range 15,000
>>dishwasher 1,500
>>fridge 1,500
>>disposal 600
>>laundry 1,500
>>dryer 5,500
>>water heater 5,600
>>---------------------------
>>40,500W
>>
>>(40,500-10,000)*0.4 = 12,200 + 10,000 = 22,200 (add 2 AC = 32,200W /
>>240 = 134amp
>>
>>NOW ADD...
>>2nd refrig 1,500W
>>2nd disposal 600
>>2nd oven 1,500
>>leave some spare capacity for eventually adding a hot tub at
>>& the 8" jointer I want to get for my woodworking shop (208V @ 20A)
>>
>>Looks like upgrading to 200A for the new, added appliances is probably
>>correct.
>
>
> You can whack a big chunk of that 10,800va off of the general lighting
> load. You only take the first 3000va at 100% and the rest is computed
> at 35%. The "laundry" is also part of that calculation along with 3000
> va for the kitchen small appliance circiuits.
> Ranges are usually computed at 8000va
> There is also an optional method where you take everything at name
> plate value, use 100% of the first 10kva and 40% of the rest.
>
> You can probably survive just fine on the 150a but you need a proper
> load calc to be sure. In real life most houses do not consume anywhere
> near the calculated load. If you do decide you really need 200a you
> certainly will need the 4/0al or 2/0cu SE cable.

Need some overhead for future expansion so 200 would be a better choice
IMO.


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on June 28, 2007, 7:45 am
> On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 17:34:42 -0700, tomme...@comcast.net wrote:
> >I currently have 150amp service. The meter and the load center are
> >separated by about 50-feet. The wiring from the meter to the load
> >center is 2/0 aluminum. I work for a major residential electrical
>

ahh just for the record that long 50 foot between meter and load
center can cause a voltage drop under heavy whole house loads.

myself if I were adding a addition then upgrading the whole thing is
what i would do, since its a small part of the overall cost and adds
resale value in the future


Posted by Doug Miller on June 28, 2007, 8:21 am
tommears@comcast.net wrote:
[snip]
>I currently have 150amp service. The meter and the load center are
>separated by about 50-feet. The wiring from the meter to the load
>center is 2/0 aluminum.

That is the minimum size rated for 150A.

>I work for a major residential electrical
>equipment maker (starts with a "S" and ends with "iemens")...and our
>construction sales people tell me that the latest version of NEC
>requires 4/0 aluminum wiring for 200amp service.

They're right, and not just the latest version, either.

>What is up with 2 of these contractors telling me it is OK to upgrade
>without replacing the existing 2/0 wiring?

Either they're incompetent, or the wire is actually copper (doubtful). Per
National Electrical Code, minimum size feeder for 200A service is 2/0 copper
or 4/0 aluminum. [2005 NEC, Table 310.15(B)(6)]

>Is there some sort of grandfather provision in this situation?

Not relevant. Whatever Code provisions may have been in effect when your
service was installed do not matter: upgrades must meet the Code that's in
effect at the time of the upgrade, not the time of the original installation.
>
>If the price difference wasn't so much it would be a no-brainer. But
>at $3,500 vs. $750 it's a lot harder to go with the cadillac solution
>simple because it is the cadillac solution....

This isn't a Cadillac vs. Chevrolet situation -- more like Cadillac vs. rusty
tricycle. 2/0 aluminum is neither adequate nor legal for a 200A service, pure
and simple, and anyone who thinks it is should not be trusted to install a
service entrance.

The difference in price between 150' feet (50' run * 3 conductors) of 4/0 vs.
2/0 aluminum won't be much more than about a hundred bucks, if that.

The difference between the $3500 quoted by the guy who says you need 4/0, and
the $750 quoted by the guys who say 2/0 is acceptable, is at least in part the
difference between a qualified electrician and a couple of incompetent hacks.

If you're uncomfortable with the $3500 price (which does seem a bit stiff to
me), then solicit bids from other qualified electricians and compare.
>
>Does anyone have any guidance on the issues and realities of this
>situation?

There's no "guidance" involved on the size of the service entrance. The
reality is that using 2/0 aluminum for a 200A service is prohibited by the
NEC. Period.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by on June 28, 2007, 8:32 am
On Jun 28, 7:21 am, spamb...@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
tomme...@comcast.net wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
> >I currently have 150amp service. The meter and the load center are
> >separated by about 50-feet. The wiring from the meter to the load
> >center is 2/0 aluminum.
>
> That is the minimum size rated for 150A.
>
> >I work for a major residential electrical
> >equipment maker (starts with a "S" and ends with "iemens")...and our
> >construction sales people tell me that the latest version of NEC
> >requires 4/0 aluminum wiring for 200amp service.
>
> They're right, and not just the latest version, either.
>
> >What is up with 2 of these contractors telling me it is OK to upgrade
> >without replacing the existing 2/0 wiring?
>
> Either they're incompetent, or the wire is actually copper (doubtful). Per
> National Electrical Code, minimum size feeder for 200A service is 2/0 copper
> or 4/0 aluminum. [2005 NEC, Table 310.15(B)(6)]
>
> >Is there some sort of grandfather provision in this situation?
>
> Not relevant. Whatever Code provisions may have been in effect when your
> service was installed do not matter: upgrades must meet the Code that's in
> effect at the time of the upgrade, not the time of the original installation.
>
>
>
> >If the price difference wasn't so much it would be a no-brainer. But
> >at $3,500 vs. $750 it's a lot harder to go with the cadillac solution
> >simple because it is the cadillac solution....
>
> This isn't a Cadillac vs. Chevrolet situation -- more like Cadillac vs. rusty
> tricycle. 2/0 aluminum is neither adequate nor legal for a 200A service, pure
> and simple, and anyone who thinks it is should not be trusted to install a
> service entrance.
>
> The difference in price between 150' feet (50' run * 3 conductors) of 4/0 vs.
> 2/0 aluminum won't be much more than about a hundred bucks, if that.
>
> The difference between the $3500 quoted by the guy who says you need 4/0, and
> the $750 quoted by the guys who say 2/0 is acceptable, is at least in part the
> difference between a qualified electrician and a couple of incompetent hacks.


Yeah, I couldn't figure out how this huge price difference could be
attributed to replacing one 50 ft service run either.


>
> If you're uncomfortable with the $3500 price (which does seem a bit stiff to
> me), then solicit bids from other qualified electricians and compare.
>
>
>
> >Does anyone have any guidance on the issues and realities of this
> >situation?
>
> There's no "guidance" involved on the size of the service entrance. The
> reality is that using 2/0 aluminum for a 200A service is prohibited by the
> NEC. Period.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.



Page 4 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
200amp service feed January 23, 2007, 10:07 am
Find the correct wire size for a load or the load for a selected wire size December 9, 2006, 1:04 am
Identifying Service Conductor Size July 28, 2006, 11:34 am
12 amp wire size July 9, 2007, 5:42 pm
Wire size for 40A welder December 16, 2006, 5:16 pm
Minimum wire size for doorbell? August 6, 2005, 8:42 pm
Wire size for 250' to garage????? July 26, 2007, 1:20 pm
Wire Size for heat Pump April 4, 2008, 10:34 am
Neoprene Washers: Trade Size vs Actual Size July 5, 2005, 7:28 am
Lumber Size = Penis Size September 14, 2006, 10:39 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap