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Posted by jamesgangnc on November 9, 2009, 3:28 pm
show/hide quoted text
> jamesgangnc wrote:
> ...
> > Uf does not have to be buried but I can't say for sure if my putting
> > it under a deck is acceptable or not. =A0The deck joists are 2x10's and
> > I have stapled the uf on the inside of one up close to the decking.
> > So it would be very difficult to damage.
> I don't have a problem w/ it assuming as you say it's well protected;
> but then again, I'm not your local inspector... :)
> > The problem with conduit is then I have to transition to the inside
> > wiring. =A0That means an accessible box at each end inside the two
> > structures where the conduit cables can be spliced to normal 14/2 and
> > 14/2. =A0Or running the conduit inside the walls all the way to the
> > boxes. =A0Not very practical on the house side because it is all old
> > work. =A0Just seemed a lot simpler to use the uf so I could run all the
> > way.
> Which harkens back to my comment earlier about workmanship. =A0What are
> you doing at the entrance(s) now and where are these penetrations?
> Would seem there would be the termination/transition points.
> --
Penetration is 3/4" holes drilled through the framing. Both sides
have 2 by lumber inside, 1/2" sheathing, and 2 by pt lumber outside.
Both holes are clean and the wire passed through easily. I stapled it
at both sides of the holes. Seems just like any other holes through a
doubled joist or framing lumber. I did not transition the uf, I ran
it inside the walls to the boxes. I don't know of any reason uf can
not be usd inside? The boxes are located pretty much right above
where the wire comes into each structure. So I have no splices.
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Posted by RBM on November 9, 2009, 3:40 pm
show/hide quoted text
> jamesgangnc wrote:
> ...
> > Uf does not have to be buried but I can't say for sure if my putting
> > it under a deck is acceptable or not. The deck joists are 2x10's and
> > I have stapled the uf on the inside of one up close to the decking.
> > So it would be very difficult to damage.
> I don't have a problem w/ it assuming as you say it's well protected;
> but then again, I'm not your local inspector... :)
> > The problem with conduit is then I have to transition to the inside
> > wiring. That means an accessible box at each end inside the two
> > structures where the conduit cables can be spliced to normal 14/2 and
> > 14/2. Or running the conduit inside the walls all the way to the
> > boxes. Not very practical on the house side because it is all old
> > work. Just seemed a lot simpler to use the uf so I could run all the
> > way.
> Which harkens back to my comment earlier about workmanship. What are
> you doing at the entrance(s) now and where are these penetrations?
> Would seem there would be the termination/transition points.
> --
Penetration is 3/4" holes drilled through the framing. Both sides
have 2 by lumber inside, 1/2" sheathing, and 2 by pt lumber outside.
Both holes are clean and the wire passed through easily. I stapled it
at both sides of the holes. Seems just like any other holes through a
doubled joist or framing lumber. I did not transition the uf, I ran
it inside the walls to the boxes. I don't know of any reason uf can
not be usd inside? The boxes are located pretty much right above
where the wire comes into each structure. So I have no splices.
The UF cable is fine. It must be protected from physical damage, which
you've done by stapling it on to the side of the framing.
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Posted by dpb on November 9, 2009, 4:08 pm
jamesgangnc wrote:
...
show/hide quoted text
> Penetration is 3/4" holes drilled through the framing. Both sides
> have 2 by lumber inside, 1/2" sheathing, and 2 by pt lumber outside.
> Both holes are clean and the wire passed through easily. I stapled it
> at both sides of the holes. Seems just like any other holes through a
> doubled joist or framing lumber. I did not transition the uf, I ran
> it inside the walls to the boxes. I don't know of any reason uf can
> not be usd inside? The boxes are located pretty much right above
> where the wire comes into each structure. So I have no splices.
"Seems like" as compared to "is" as per Code aren't necessarily at all
the same... :)
I don't know the specific Code section pertaining to that issue otomh;
I'd think it might be addressed to require weatherhead or similar
protection at entrance to/from a structure.
My concerns would have to do w/ weather protection and possible rodent
damage or similar as well as those unsealed holes being accesses for
insects, etc., besides the air leakage from a HVAC standpoint. Again,
how concerned I'd be would have to do w/ where they're physically
located wrt to the rest of the structure(s), ground, etc,. etc., etc.,
none of which have anything specific to go on. And, while not big, it
is a break in a fire barrier.
You are correct in that there is nothing wrong at all about using the UF
internal structure; it's simply more than required there.
Again, I'm not an inspector nor even terribly knowledgeable about the
details of Code other than the basics to "get safe" as opposed to
"fully-compliant" and certainly on the farmstead have places where
expediency has played a role. :)
But, at an entrance/exit like this I'm pretty sure I'd have at least put
a weather seal on the outside at each location in a residential location
unless it is really very well protected and I'd think there wouldn't be
a vermin problem, etc., as mentioned (but out here, we got enough stuff
that anywhere there's a nook or cranny there's gonna' be some
critter/bug/whatever ya' don't want inside looking at it as a wonderful
place to nest or use as a freeway. :( I've been other places that
wasn't such a big deal as didn't seem to have so many pests for some
reason (or at least different ones; we don't have squirrels here to put
up with is one advantage. :) )
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Posted by Tom Horne on November 10, 2009, 1:21 pm
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> On 11/9/2009 11:11 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:
> > But I've also installed an outdoor light fixture on the door of the
> > garage that opens on to the deck. =A0And I extended the 3-way switches
> > out to a box just inside the door. =A0I did this by running two pieces
> > of uf, 14/3 and 14/2 out to the garage inside the deck joists.
> Don't know the answer to the question you asked here, but I wonder about
> using UF as you did: is it OK to have it exposed like this? I thought it
> was only supposed to be buried, as its name suggests.
> Seems like conduit would be the way to go here.
> --
> Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
> blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
> - harvested from Usenet
David
All of the type UF cable presently sold in the US is listed and
labeled as sunlight resistant and is perfectly acceptable for exposed
runs except were subject to physical damage. I have used a fair
amount of type UF as indoor wiring in barns were it's resistance to
moisture and the corrosive fumes of animal waste make it the cost
effective cable of choice.
Tom Horne
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Posted by WW on November 9, 2009, 3:39 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I'm building a detached garage with 2nd story living space that is
> about 14 feet from the house. The two are connected by the deck that
> also wraps around the house. Basically you go between the house and
> garage via the deck. I powered the garage via a 100amp breaker on the
> main box to a subpanel in the garage.
> But I've also installed an outdoor light fixture on the door of the
> garage that opens on to the deck. And I extended the 3-way switches
> out to a box just inside the door. I did this by running two pieces
> of uf, 14/3 and 14/2 out to the garage inside the deck joists.
> So I have a lighting circuit from the house system extended into the
> garage and not sharing any of the wiring connections in the garage off
> it's subpanel. Is this ok code wise? If not is there a way to make
> it ok?
Do you have any squirrel insulation eaters? ww
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> ...
> > Uf does not have to be buried but I can't say for sure if my putting
> > it under a deck is acceptable or not. =A0The deck joists are 2x10's and
> > I have stapled the uf on the inside of one up close to the decking.
> > So it would be very difficult to damage.
> I don't have a problem w/ it assuming as you say it's well protected;
> but then again, I'm not your local inspector... :)
> > The problem with conduit is then I have to transition to the inside
> > wiring. =A0That means an accessible box at each end inside the two
> > structures where the conduit cables can be spliced to normal 14/2 and
> > 14/2. =A0Or running the conduit inside the walls all the way to the
> > boxes. =A0Not very practical on the house side because it is all old
> > work. =A0Just seemed a lot simpler to use the uf so I could run all the
> > way.
> Which harkens back to my comment earlier about workmanship. =A0What are
> you doing at the entrance(s) now and where are these penetrations?
> Would seem there would be the termination/transition points.
> --