Home Page link

wood fence gate not plumb

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 4 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
wood fence gate not plumb MiamiCuse 05-09-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Roger Shoaf on May 11, 2008, 12:38 am


>
> It is a combination of the two posts being plumbed but one is further
inside
> by 1.5" then the other post, and the installer forced the drop rod in the
> right place (hence twisting the gate etc...)
>
> I need to rebuild the gates and also find a way to mount the hinges such
> that an offset is possible.
>

OK if one post is behind the other by 1 1/2 inches then remove the hinges
from the post that is too far back and bolt on a 2 X something. this should
bring the face back to where you need it. buy some bolts that are an inch
and a half longer and now the hinge side of each gate will be in the right
place.

Now all you need to do is to tweak your gates back into shape and everything
should work fine.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.



Posted by Norminn on May 9, 2008, 4:09 pm
clipped

>
>So that leads to my questions. Are there other remedies to consider. Can I
>shim the hinges? Can I somehow buy some sophisticated hinges that are
>capable of adjustments inward and outward that would make it less noticable?
>
>Any ideas appreciated.
>
>MC
>
>
>
>
I'm not a fence builder. Can you put a wheel on
the inside ends of the gates so it takes some of the weight off the
fence? How deep did you place the
posts? If you can put a wheel on the gate, perhaps when the ground is
wet and softer so the posts
might straighten? What's under the gate opening - pavement? I don't
see how changing the hinges
would accomplish anything .... seems the weight of the gates, and,
perhaps, the leverage of opening
them is too much for the support system (not deep enough).

Posted by Norminn on May 9, 2008, 4:16 pm
Norminn wrote:

> clipped
>
>>
>> So that leads to my questions. Are there other remedies to
>> consider. Can I shim the hinges? Can I somehow buy some
>> sophisticated hinges that are capable of adjustments inward and
>> outward that would make it less noticable?
>>
>> Any ideas appreciated.
>>
>> MC
>>
>>
>>
> I'm not a fence builder. Can you put a wheel on
> the inside ends of the gates so it takes some of the weight off the
> fence? How deep did you place the
> posts? If you can put a wheel on the gate, perhaps when the ground is
> wet and softer so the posts
> might straighten? What's under the gate opening - pavement? I don't
> see how changing the hinges
> would accomplish anything .... seems the weight of the gates, and,
> perhaps, the leverage of opening
> them is too much for the support system (not deep enough).

P.S. If the concrete in the trench isn't terribly wide, you might be
able to install another post, deeper,
on each side and sistered to the existing, out-of-plumb posts. Less
demo/excapvation. Or, possibly,
a hinge in the middle of each section of the gate - the thought being
that you "fold" each section of the
gate before opening it fully and have less leverage pulling the posts
out of plumb. Gosh, I wish I knew
the math :o)

Posted by David Nebenzahl on May 9, 2008, 6:34 pm
On 5/9/2008 1:09 PM Norminn spake thus:

>>So that leads to my questions. Are there other remedies to consider. Can I
>>shim the hinges? Can I somehow buy some sophisticated hinges that are
>>capable of adjustments inward and outward that would make it less noticable?
>>
>>Any ideas appreciated.
>
> I'm not a fence builder. Can you put a wheel on the inside ends of
> the gates so it takes some of the weight off the fence?

I'll just answer this part of your post: yes, you can. In fact, I just
did that recently for two large gates I built that seem uncannily like
the ones the O.P. described: each about 5' wide, 6' tall. I bought 2
casters from Grainger with fairly solid but resilient treads and put
them under each gate. So far, they seem to be working fine. (You must,
of course, level the path the wheels take.) It takes most of the strain
off the hinges.

I actually had the same problem he seems to be having--the posts not
lining up with each other--but in my case they were only off by a little
more than an inch. I suspect he simply wasn't careful enough plumbing
the posts when the concrete was setting.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.

- Attributed to Winston Churchill

Posted by Oren on May 9, 2008, 11:14 pm
On Fri, 09 May 2008 15:34:12 -0700, David Nebenzahl

>I suspect he simply wasn't careful enough plumbing
>the posts when the concrete was setting.

Page 4 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Wood Fence/ Gate / Post Question July 19, 2008, 2:28 pm
Fence/Gate repair November 28, 2005, 6:24 pm
Coverting fence section into gate... November 28, 2005, 9:42 am
Re: Best wood for fence April 29, 2006, 10:06 pm
6' x 60' Wood Fence May 20, 2007, 4:29 am
Wood fence August 28, 2008, 9:41 pm
Wood Fence Repair September 28, 2007, 7:09 am
Replacing wood fence sections August 26, 2006, 1:28 am
Horizontal slatted wood fence September 4, 2006, 11:30 pm
45' fence.need ideas.trex?wood? July 9, 2007, 12:48 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap