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wood stove flue too hot?

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wood stove flue too hot? spikchik69 01-14-2007
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Posted by on January 14, 2007, 4:30 pm


I have a wood stove in my basement. I have a thermometer on the pipe
where it enters the chimney, and I keep it in the safe range.

After about 5 hours of burning, the chimney / flue gets extremely hot
about 12 inches over where the metal pipe goes in. It gets hot on all
sides, not just the side where the pipe goes in.

By "hot", I mean I can only hold my hand on it for a fraction of a
second.

I am pretty sure the chimney doesn't have a metal liner. I had a
chimney sweep guy clean it out in the fall, and he didn't say anything
about the liner not being up to the task of handling a wood stove. As
I understand it, wood allows a lot more heat to go up the chimney than
an oil furnace.

The previous owner used the stove regularly (I just got the house in
the summer).

So I guess my question is whether or not it is normal for a chinmey to
get this hot...?

Thanks..


Posted by Don Phillipson on January 14, 2007, 5:33 pm



> I have a wood stove in my basement. I have a thermometer on the pipe
> where it enters the chimney, and I keep it in the safe range.
>
> After about 5 hours of burning, the chimney / flue gets extremely hot
> about 12 inches over where the metal pipe goes in. It gets hot on all
> sides, not just the side where the pipe goes in.
>
> By "hot", I mean I can only hold my hand on it for a fraction of a
> second.
>
> I am pretty sure the chimney doesn't have a metal liner. I had a
> chimney sweep guy clean it out in the fall, and he didn't say anything
> about the liner not being up to the task of handling a wood stove.

Omissions:
1. Since you have a stovepipe thermometer, we can
advise better if we know what it indicates. Hot to the
touch is not an adequately precise indicator.
2. You should be aware that, in some jurisdictions
(e.g. Ontario, Canada) the fire code is retroactive, i.e.
you may be required to upgrade to comply with the
current code (more probably by your insurance
carrier than by local government.)
3. Modern stove flues ought to be double-walled
(as modern fire codes are likely to specify.) These
are tested by the standards authority to withstand
interior (smoke temperatures) as high as 2000 Fahr.
(Some firemen recommend an intentional chimney
fire every year or so for cleaning purposes: but they
are probably not supposed to say this.) Books
about woodstove efficiency recommend the
temperature inside the smokestack ought to be
above 300 Fahr. -- no problem in a double flue.

You can see for yourself whether the pipe is single-
or double-walled by disassembling the stove pipe.
If uncertain about this, have the chimney sweep
show you how on his next visit.

Do not ask your insurance carrier or agent for
advice about wood stove safety. You are not likely
to get a coherent answer and you may put the
insurer on the road to cancelling your insurance.
But it is in your own interest to find out what your
local fire code specifies and conform to it if you can.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)



Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on January 14, 2007, 6:49 pm



>I have a wood stove in my basement. I have a thermometer on the pipe
> where it enters the chimney, and I keep it in the safe range.
>
> After about 5 hours of burning, the chimney / flue gets extremely hot
> about 12 inches over where the metal pipe goes in. It gets hot on all
> sides, not just the side where the pipe goes in.
>
> By "hot", I mean I can only hold my hand on it for a fraction of a
> second.
> >
> So I guess my question is whether or not it is normal for a chinmey to
> get this hot...?

What do you consider safe range? I usually run my stove so the cast iron
top is at least 400 degrees, and a couple of times a day, run it up to about
700F to keep it clean. The stove pipe is easily 400 at any given time.
That, IMO, is normal. What does your actually read on the thermometer?



Posted by on January 14, 2007, 7:25 pm


Thanks for the speedy replies.

I should have specified the pipe temperatures in my original post. The
thermometer I use shows the "best combustion" range as 300 - 475 F.
Over 475 is labeled "too hot". When it gets up around 500, I shut 'er
down to cool off a little.

The stovepipe is defintely single-walled - I have pulled it out of the
chimney myself to look at it. It is probably not up to code. I am
having a new wood furnace add-on attached to my oil furnace next year,
but would like to get through the winter with this stove. But I don't
want to crack or otherwise ruin my chimney or burn the house down in
the mean time.

And to clarify, it is the brick chimney that I am worried about, not
the metal pipe. I have inadvertently let the metal pipe get red hot,
so I'm pretty sure it can handle 500 F. I'm just not sure how hot the
chimney itself is supposed to get. It is the chimney that gets too hot
to touch. (I may have mis-used the word "flue" in my original post.)
One friend tells me that the clay liner won't stand the heat of a wood
stove, but another friend tells me that he has run his stove 24/7 for
the past 3 weeks (he has a clay liner - ie, no metal insert).

Thanks again, I appreciate the help..
Stephanie D.


Posted by EXT on January 14, 2007, 8:08 pm


If you are meaning the brick chimney with a vitrified clay liner is getting
warm on the outside after several hours, I would consider that normal. The
tile liner/brick exterior are masonry units in contact with each other. Heat
will eventually start to transfer, in certain masonry stoves this is
considered a heat sink to hold the heat for future release.

The pipe between the stove and the chimney is normally single wall as it is
supposed to be an additional source of heat. The chimney should be either
masonry with a clay liner, or a masonry with a stainless steel liner, or a
class "A" double wall insulated metal chimney. While masonry chimneys have a
problem, especially if they are on an outside wall, of having a lot of
creosote and moisture until they slowly heat up, they are very durable.
After all the clay liner is kiln baked and heavily glazed with kiln baked
coating. Anything your wood stove will do will be less than it survived
during manufacture.


> Thanks for the speedy replies.
>
> I should have specified the pipe temperatures in my original post. The
> thermometer I use shows the "best combustion" range as 300 - 475 F.
> Over 475 is labeled "too hot". When it gets up around 500, I shut 'er
> down to cool off a little.
>
> The stovepipe is defintely single-walled - I have pulled it out of the
> chimney myself to look at it. It is probably not up to code. I am
> having a new wood furnace add-on attached to my oil furnace next year,
> but would like to get through the winter with this stove. But I don't
> want to crack or otherwise ruin my chimney or burn the house down in
> the mean time.
>
> And to clarify, it is the brick chimney that I am worried about, not
> the metal pipe. I have inadvertently let the metal pipe get red hot,
> so I'm pretty sure it can handle 500 F. I'm just not sure how hot the
> chimney itself is supposed to get. It is the chimney that gets too hot
> to touch. (I may have mis-used the word "flue" in my original post.)
> One friend tells me that the clay liner won't stand the heat of a wood
> stove, but another friend tells me that he has run his stove 24/7 for
> the past 3 weeks (he has a clay liner - ie, no metal insert).
>
> Thanks again, I appreciate the help..
> Stephanie D.
>



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